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A
MANUAL
HAND LATHE:
COMPRISING
CONCISE DIRECTIONS
WORKING METALS OF ALL KINDS, IVORY, BONE AND PRECIOUS
WOODS; DYEING, COLORING, AND TRENCH POLISHING;
INLAYING BY VENEERS, AND VARIOUS METHODS
PRACTICED TO PRODUCE ELABORATE WORK
WITH DISPATCH, AND AT SMALL EXPENSE.
BY EGBERT P. WATSON,
LATE OF "the scientific AMERICAN," AUTHOR OF "THE MODERN PRACTICE OF
AMERICAN MACHINISTS AND ENGINEERS."
rLLUSTKATED BT SEVENTT-EIGHT ENeKAStlNGS.
.,:?r^u:-Fc^,;:
PHILADELPHIA: ] ,
HENRY CAREY BAIRD, INDUSTRIALPIJBLISpRr
406 WALNUT STREET.
LONDON:
SAMPSON LOW, SON & MARSTON,
Crown Buildings, 188 Fleet St.
1869.
Etitered according to Act oi Congress, in the year 1869, by
HENRY CAREY BAIRD,
In the Clerk's Oflfice of the District Court of the United Statesj in and for
the Eastern District of Pennsylvania!
TO MY DEAR SON",
EGBERT PERLET WATSON,
I DEDICATE
THIS LITTLE BOOK,
IN THE
HOPE THAT HE MAY BE A GOOD MAN,
AND A GOOD MECHANIC.
PREFACE.
I DID not write this little book with the
intention of apologizing to the prospective
reader, so soon as I had done so, but with
the honest, I hope not egotistical, feeling
that I had something to say that was not
generally known. We live to learn and to
impart what we know to others, and I have
taken this method of giving ray experience
in a pastime tliat is elevating, artistic in
every sense of the word, and a wholesome
relief from the cares of business.
In regard to the work itself, I can show
samples of every thing of any importance
described or given in it. I have not made
all of the patterns given in the back part, for
that is mere routine, but in gross, and in
most details, the book is the result of expe-
rience, and will be found reliable as far as
5
6 PREFACE.
it goes. That it does not cover every pos-
sible change and use to which the lathe can
be put, I am well aware.
Something must be left for the workman
to find out himself. Neither have I given
any recipes for varnishes, for those cannot
be made by inexperienced persons. More-
over, they can be had so cheaply and uni-
versally, that it is mere folly for any ama-
teur to make them.
Saluting all persons who love the art of
which this little volume is descriptive,
I am their sincere friend,
EGBERT P. WATSON.
New York, April 15, 1869.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I. PAGE
The Foot Lathe 13
CHAPTER II.
Tools 22
CHAPTER III.
So RAPERS, ETC 30
Chasing and Screw Cutting 33
CHAPTER IV.
Chasers, etc 35
CHAPTER V.
Chucking 42
CHAPTER VI.
Metal Spinning 51
CHAPTER YII.
Ornamental Cutting 59
To make a pair op Solitaire Sleeve Buttons.... 59
CHAPTER VIII.
Centres 65
CHAPTER IX.
Fancy Turning 71
7
8 CONTENTS.
CHAPTER X. PAGE
Ornamental Woods 77
Varieties 77
Snake Wood 78
Tulip Wood 79
g-ranadilla ...<,..«.... 80
Tamarind » .......* 80
Cam Wood 81
Box Wood 81
Laurel Eoot 82
White Holly 82
Ebony 82
Olive Wood 83
Sandal Wood • 8B
Rose Wood 84
Curled Maple 84
Birds' Eye Maple 84
Treatment « 85
CHAPTER XL
Wood Turning 87
CHAPTER XIL
Tools for Wood Turninu 90
CHAPTER XIIL
Tool Tempering, etc 92
CHAPTER XIY.
Artistic Wood Turning 96
CHAPTER XY.
Stamp Inlaying 102
CHAPTER XVL
Designs in Mosaic 106
CONTENTS. 9
CHAPTER XVII. PAGE
Finishing the Outside 110
CHAPTER XVIII.
Inlaying Continued 114
Gluing in Veneers 115
Ivory 116
Polishing 118
Dyeing Ivory 118
CHAPTER XIX.
Ornamental Designs for Inlaying 121
CHAPTER XX.
General Summary 125
Lacquers 126
Soldering 127
Varnishing and Polishing 129
Brushes 131
Pearl 131
Miscellaneous Tools 131
Curving Veneers 132
Cutting Miscellaneous Materials 133
Index 135
MANUAL
OF THE HAND LATHE.
CHAPTER I.
THE FOOT LATHE.
There are two distinct kinds of work done in
foot lathes — the useful and the merely ornamental.
Both afford enjoyment and profit to those who
practise them. The mechanic who earns his
living by working ten hours a day in a workshop,
does not care to go home and pursue the same
calling in the evening ; but he can institute an
agreeable change in his life, beautify his dwelling,
and cultivate his taste, by the use of the lathe, and
thus obtain ornaments that would cost large sums
if purchased at the stores; or he may, indeed,
make the lathe a source of revenue, and sell the
product of his skill and ingenuity at high prices
to those who admire, but have not the ability to
construct.
To many mechanics, even, the lathe is merely a
machine for turning cylinders or disks, or exe-
2 13
14 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE.
cuting beads, ogees, scrolls, or curves of various
radii, so that, after all, the work is pretty much
alike, and ceases to be attractive. This is quite a
mistaken view. There are no such goods in mar-
ket as those made on lathes, and peculiar tools
used in connection with them — by lathes with
traversing mandrels, with geometric chucks, with
dome chucks, and compound slide rests. There
are lathes that, while one could chase up a five-
eight bolt in them as well as on the simple pulley
and treadle machine, are also capable of executing
all sorts of beautiful things — vases with bases
nearly square, or exactly square, with round tops
and hexagonal bodies, with gracefully-curved an-
gular sides and bases, fluted vertically; boxes
with curious patterns, resembling basket work ;
in fact, any combination of straight and curved
lines, cut in the sides, it is possible for an inge-
nious man to invent. Strictly speaking, these are
not lathes, for in order to do the things before
mentioned it is necessary to use after attachments
in connection with them, so that the combination
of them produces the results spoken of. There is,
absolutely, an unlimited field for the genius of
workmen to exert itself in designing patterns and
executing work of an ornamental character.
All ornamental work resolves itself into move-
ments of three kinds — angular, circular and
THE FOOT LATHE. 15
straight. From the combination of these with
each other, the times where they merge and
emerge, where a movement of one kind changes
into any other, where an ellipse becomes part of a
circle, where circles are generated across the cir-
cumferences of other circles, where these patterns
are drawn over and upon each other without de-
stroying the character of either — we say, by such
movements, and many others which it would be
confusing to follow, the most beautiful forms are
made.
Or, if the taste of the workman runs upon me-
chanical instead of artistic things, there are steam
engines to be made, steam boilers to be spun up,
of small size ; in fact, any piece or machine that
can be thought of.
It is almost unnecessary to specify the innu-
merable kinds of work that can be done in a hand
lathe, but the amateur who delights in metal turn-
ing may make trinkets of all kinds for his friends,
that shall vie in beauty with the best efforts of
the jeweler and goldsmith. This, of course, is de-
pendent on the material used, the taste of the
workman, and his originality of conception. Pins
for ladies' wear can be made of boxwood and
ebony, glued together in sections, of all designs,
and afterwards turned in beads and mouldings, or
otherwise ornamented in a chuck, as will be
16 MANUAL OP THE HAND LATHE.
shown hereafter. Sleeve buttons can be made of
ebony and silver, ivory and silver, pearl and gold,
or any combination that is desired. Chess and
checker men also afford a chance to display skill.
And, besides these, special work of any nature is
within the capacity of the machine.
There is no family in this country that would
not find it economy to have a foot lathe in the
house, where the members have mechanical tastes
— not necessarily the male members, for ladies use
foot lathes, in Europe, with the greatest dexterity.
Some of the most beautiful work ever made, was
by Miss Holtzapfel, a relative of the celebrated
mechanist of the same name. If there are shovels
to be mended, the lathe will drill the holes and
turn the rivets. If the handle of the saucepan is
loose, it will do the same. If scissors or knives
want grinding, there is the lathe ; if the castors on
the sofa break down, there is the lathe ; if skates
need repairs, either of grinding or of any other
kind, there is the lathe. In short, it ought to be
as much a part of domestic economy as the sew-
ing machine, for it takes the odd stitches in the
mechanical department that save money.
Let not the inexperienced reader, who hears of
a lathe for the first time, be frightened at this ar-
ray of terms, or diverted from the use of it by
the recital. In its simple form, as shown in Fig. 1,
THE FOOT LATHE.
Fig. 1.
17
it is readily understood, and, after a little prac-
tice, easily managed by any one, and, after the first
few weeks, the amateur will realize the fruits of
his application.
2*
18 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE.
At first, it had not even a continuous rotary
motion, but the spindle was driven by a belt
worked by a spring pole or its equivalent. The
belt was rolled round the spindle, and the pole
allowed to spring up ; the spindle then revolved
the lofigth of the belt, or rope, for belts were not
thought of, and the operation was repeated, the
work being done only when the force of the spring
pole revolved the spindle and the job the right
way.
Foot lathes had, prior to the introduction of
the engine lathe, been used on very heavy work.
It is but a few years, comparatively speaking —
not twenty — since cast-iron shafts, six, eight, and
ten inches in diameter, were turned in such lathes.
For all that we know to the contrary, many jobs,
far exceeding this in size, have been thus exe-
cuted.
In some shops, there are still standing heavy
oaken shears, made of timber twenty inches deep,
and four or six inches wide, faced with boiler
iron, and in the racks above there are long-
shanked tools, with which the men of old were
wont to do the work.
These lathes are never used now, except for
drilling holes, or for apprentiiaes to practice on,
but they serve to show what machinists had to do
in olden times, when there were no vise benches
THE FOOT LATHE. 19
Fig. 2.
to sit on and watch the chips curling off the tool,
as men do now.
Hand lathes are not in great favor in large ma-
chine shops. They are not used, or should not be,
for any purpose except drilling, and then they are
no longer hand lathes, but horizontal drilling ma-
chines. There is no simple work to be done on a
hand lathe that could not be performed to better
advantage and more cheaply on a machine con-
structed for the purpose.
Some large machine shops keep a hand lathe
going continually, cutting off stud bolts, facing
and rounding up nuts, and similar work. This
does not seem profitable. A machine to do this
work would do more, of a better quality, than
hand labor could.
The foot lathe — the terms hand and foot lathe
are synonymous — is generally used, at the present
time, by small machinists, manufacturers of gas
fixtures, amateurs, etc. ; men who do not work a
20 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE.
lathe constantly, but are called off to braze or
solder, or, perhaps, to fit some detail with a file.
For these uses the foot lathe is one of the cheap-
est of tools ; for the same person that does the work
furnishes the power also, so that a man working
on a foot, or hand lathe, as it is often called,
ought to have first-class wages. Moreover, a first-
rate foot lathe turner is always a good mechanic,
for it takes no small degree of dexterity to per-
form the several jobs with ease, and dispatch, and
certainty. To always get hold of the right tool,
to use the same properly, so that it will last a
reasonable time without being ground or tem-
pered, to rough-turn hollow places with a square
edge, to chase a true thread to the right size every
time, without making a drunken one, or a slant-
ing one, to make a true thread inside of an oil
cup or a box — all these several tasks require good
judgment, dexterity, and a steady hand. Of
course, where a slide-rest is used, the case is dif-
ferent. "We allude, specially, to a cutting tool
managed by the hand.
To do all these things, however, it is necessary
to have tools, and good ones, or none. It is an
old saying, that a bad workman quarrels with his
tools, but a good workman has a right to quarrel
with bad tools, if he is furnished with them,
through chance or design. It is impossible to ex-
THE FOOT LATHE. 21
cute good work with a dull tool, one badly
shaped, or unsuited to the purpose, and, therefore,
it is important to set out right at the beginning.
There is no tool more efficient in the hands of a
good^workman, than the diamond point. Fig. 2,
here shown. For roughing off a piece of metal,
for squaring up the end, for facing a piece held in
the chuck, for running out a curve, or rounding
up a globe, it is equally well adapted. It may be
truly called the turner's friend.
22 MANUAI^ OF THE HAND LATHE.
CHAPTER IL
TOOLS.
Any one who has watched a novice at work on
a lathe, must have remarked the difficulty he has in
controlling the tool and keeping up the motion ot
the treadle at the same time. The two operations
are difficult to " get the hang of," to use a homely
phrase ; but once conquered, the work can proceed.
The natural tendency is to slack up or stop the
motion of the treadle while the tool is engaged,
and the tool is, therefore, at one time under the
work, at another time above it, at another jumping
rankly in, until, finally, the piece goes whirling out
of the center or the chuck, and the operator flushes
all over at his awkwardness.
This, of course, is remedied by practice ; aud as
this work is written mainly for the information of
beginners and amateurs, we hope that experts and
those who know all about hand lathes, will excuse
allusion to such simple things as holding the tool
properly, and kindred matters.
The lathe must be of such a height as the work-
man finds convenient, so that he is not obliged to
TOOLS, 23
stoop much, and, at tlie same time, low enough to
allow the weight of the body to be thrown on the
tool when hard work is to be done. The speed of
the lathe ought to be very high on the smallest
cone, and there should be three speeds, at least,
for different work. The object is to regulate the
velocity of the work in the lathe, and keep the
motion of the treadle uniform, as near as may be,
at all times. It distresses a workman greatly,
when chasing a fine thread on a small diameter, if
he has to tread fast to get up the proper speed, as
he does when there are only two speeds. On the
contrary, for larger jobs, it is dijSicult to keep up
a rotary motion if the foot moves slowly, as it
must in order not to burn the tool by a high ve-
locity on some kinds of work. Foot lathes, in
general, are not geared, although some are, and
ought to have wider ranges of speed than they do.
Where one class of work is done, however, it
makes little difference, but for general turning,
the speeds should vary.
Another difficulty experienced by beginners is
in holding the tool still — rigidly so. They allow
it to " bob " back and forth against the work, if it
runs untrue, so that it is impossible to make a job.
The tool must be held hard down, as if it grew to
the rest, and never moved, nor receded, until the
cut besun is finished.
24
MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE.
The "rest" should be of soft, wrought iron,
since that material holds a tool with more tenaci-
ty ; imposing less strain on the arms of the opera-
tor. It should be dressed off smooth as often as
it gets badly worn, or cut by indentations. Cast
iron is not good, and steel is not so good as
wrought iron. A special rest should be kept for
chasing threads with, since the least obstacle is
enough, when running up a fine thread, to divert
the chaser and spoil the job, by making a drunken
thread. If we now suppose the lathe to be in
good order, the centers true and well-turned to a
gauge, the rod (if that is the job) between them and
properly " dogged," the centers oiled, and the
rest at the right height, we shall be all ready to
start. The rest should be high enough to bring
the point of the tool a little above the center.
To rough ofi" the outside, and make it run true,
is the first step, and the tool must, therefore, be
Fig. 3.
held as in Fig. 3, or so that the point and part of
the edge alone engage with the work. This will
TOOLS. 25
take oflf a thin, spiral cut, without springing the
shaft or making it untrue. The whole surface of
the shaft must be thus run over, beginning at the
right hand and shifting the tool as fast as one part
is turned. The tool should not be moved rigidly
in a straight line toward the belt, but by holding
it hard down on the rest, so that the bottom edge
bears as m Fig. 2, and rocking the tool on that
angle, so that the point describes a curve, as in
Fig. 4.
Fig. 4, the work will be turned evenly and true.
We must remark, in passing, that the person
who reads these directions, and then undertakes to
turn by them, will find that reading how to do a
thing, and doing it, are two different matters.
It looks very nice to see a skater darting over
the ice at his ease, but try it once, and, if you
never knew before, you will understand what ex-
perience means. Trying to teach a person to be a
turner, in a book, is analogous. One can only in-
dicate the general method, and leave experience to
do the rest.
3
26
MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE.
After tlie whole surface has been run over, the
same tool may be used on the flat side for reda-
cing the work to one diameter throughout the
Fig. 5.
length. The reader must not assume that there
is no other tool than a diamond point j he will
find many others adverted to, as we proceed.
It is most important that the ends of a rod or
shaft should be squared up first, before the body
Fig. 6.
is turned, for the removal of some slight inequal-
ity subsequently may cause the whole shaft to run
out of truth. The center must be drilled with a
TOOLS,
27
Fig. 7. small drill, and slightly counter-
sunk. When the end is squared
up, the center must be run back
a little, so that the tool point
may project over the drilled,
hole, and thus make it all true
about the center, as in Fig. 5.
This will make the work push
over to one side of the center,
but that is of no consequence.
Let it run as it will ; so long; as
it does not come out of the cen-
ters there need be no apprehen-
sion.
Fig. 6, is another kind of
roughing tool, to do heavier
work with.
There are two kinds of tools
used in foot lathes, called
straight and heel tools. Fig. 7
is a heel tool. It is so called
from the heel which is forged on
the lower end. One form of the
straight tool has already been
shown. The heel tool is used on heavy work,
and the object of it is apparent, namely, to hold
on the rest, and so impose but little labor on the
workman to retain it in place, or prevent it from
28
MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE.
receding. It is generally forged from half incli
or five eighth steel. The steel is held in a handle
twenty inches long, grooved on top to fit the steel,
and furnished with a handle at right angles. This
handle has a square eye in the top that the tool
passes through. A nut at the end of it screws up
the eye and binds the tool fast in the groove, so
that it cannot slip.
It is given complete in Fig. 7. The lower han-
Fig. 8.
die enables the workman to have great power
over the edge, and to direct it from or to the
TOOLS. 29
work without clanger of catching. The tool is
•used by resting the end on the shoulder, as in Fig.
8, and turning the lowest handle. Since the heel
holds the tool from slipping, there is no occasion
to bear against it. In fact, there is no occasion, at
any time, to force the tool from the workman, but
it must be turned sideways, back and forth. A
piece, properly centered, may be cut in any way
without destroying its truth.
3*
30
MANUAL OP THE HAND LATHE.
CHAPTER III.
SCEAPERS, ETC.
To suit different kinds of work, as previously
stated, various tools are needed, but the reader
must not expect to see them all illustrated in this
book. The workman will learn what tools he
needs, and make them for himself, which will be
of more advantage to him than engravings could
be. The tools here shown, will be found very
useful in different places.
Fig. 9. Fig. 9 is the end of a thin-edged, flat
scraper, and is chiefly to be used on
brass work. It may be of any length
and size, but for small lathes, and light
work, it is cheaper and handier to make
it of thin sheet steel, one eighth or one
tenth of an inch thick, and to form the
reverse end into a round nose, or half-circle
scraper.
It often happens that fillets or hollows occur, as
in finishing ornamental brass work, in connection
with flat surfaces. By having such a tool as this,
the necessity of laying one tool down and picking
i|||i
SCRAPERS, ETC.
31
up another, is- obviated, for the two are combined
in one. For iron work, it is customary to use a
heavier and thicker tool for finishing. As in Fig.
Fig. 10. 10, the front edge is
slightly raised or con-
cave, to make it sharp
and hold a cut well. All
turning tools for finish-
ing iron are made thick-
er than those for brass,
and should have lips, or curved cutting edges.
Such tools cannot be used for brass, as they are
too sharp ; the edges jump into the metal and
spoil the work.
A tool for scraping brass work of some kinds is
made as shown in Figs. 11 and 12.
Fig. 11.
Fig. 13.
There is no occasion to make the ends at dif-
ferent angles, except the convenience, before
stated, of having four cutting edges on one piece,
for any angle can be easily given by the position
32 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE.
of the hand or the direction of the rest. These
tools, here alluded to, are only to be used when the
job has been all turned true and the scale removed ;
thej scrape, merely, they do not cut.
Such tools sometimes save a few steps at a critical
period; that is, when the tool is well set and in place,
so that the work is done better and more expe-
ditiously. Apart from this consideration, there
is the chance of cutting or injuring the hands, by
the proximity of sharp edges. Under the control
of an expert, however, there is little danger from
this cause, as inspection will show. Skilful men
that have worked a lifetime at their trade, have
few marks or scars on their hands, as a general
thing.
When these scrapers are used on cast iron, or
indeed, on brass of a peculiar composition, they
sometimes " chatter," as it is called, and leave the
work full of deep, unsightly marks, like those on
the edge of coins. The cause of chattering is the
rapid vibration of the tool, so that it springs away
from, and against the work, with great rapidity,
leaving traces of its edge on the work. Chatter-
ing may be prevented, by putting a piece of sole
leather on the rest, between it and the tool.
The tools with long handles are chiefly intended
for heavy work, or that which requires both
hands to the cut, but there are smaller tools than
SCRAPERS, ETC.
33
these, used bj amateurs, wherein the common
tile handle, or one like it, only a little longer, is
employed instead.
CHASIJSTG AND SCREW CUTTING.
In an engine, or power lathe, all screws are cut
by trains of gears, as mechanics well know, but
in the hand lathe, which was the first machine,
screws, both male and female, must be made by
chasers or hubs, both inside and outside. The
chaser itself must be made first, however, and
that is done by a simple tool called " a hub."
Fig. 13.
The chaser is first forged in blank, for an out-
Fig. 14. Fiff. 15.
side chaser, as in Fig. 14, and as in Fig. 15 for an
34
MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE,
inside tool. It is then filed up, and held against
a hub, shown in Fig., 13, running in the lathe.
This rapidly cuts away the chaser blank, and
forms the teeth in it perfectly. The lines across
it are spiral grooves, cut completely round from
one side to the other, so that the hub cuts the
blank like any other tool. Fig. 16 represents
the chaser.
Fiff. 16.
CHASERS, ETC. .35
CHAPTEE IV.
CHASERS, ETC,
It is not always an easy task to chase a true
thread on a piece of work, and even " the boldest
holds his breath for a time," if he has a nice piece
of work all done but the thread, and that in a
critical part. It is so easy to make a drunken
thread, or one in which the spirals are not true,
but diverge or waver in their path around the
shaft, that many are made. That they are more
common than true threads, is well known to me-
chanics. To start a thread true is quite easy with
an inside chaser ; for, strange as it may seem, it is
seldom that a drunken thread is made on inside
work ; only have the bore itself true, and the
chaser will run in properly. The case is different
when a bolt or shaft is to be cut. With fine
threads, the slightest obstruction on the rest will
cause the chaser to catch and stop slightly. No
matter how slight the stoppage, it is certain to
damage the thread. The injury is more percepti-
ble on fine threads than on coarse, for, in the
former, if the threads do not fit (as they will not
36 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE.
if they are drunken, one crossing the other, when
both parts are put together), the drunken thread
will not come fair with the other. In coarse
threads, however, it will not be so apparent, for,
by making the drunken thread smaller, it wdll
have play and accommodate itself to its place. This
is not workmanship, it is " make-shift."
To chase a true thread the rest must be smooth
and free from burrs or depressions. Nice work-
men keep a special rest, with a hard, polished
steel edge, expressly for this purpose.
If the chasers themselves are smoothly finished
at the bottom, on an emery wheel, they are all
the better. With these precautions^ and others
noted below, success is certain. When a thread
is to be started, take a fine diamond-pointed tool,
and hold it on the end of the shaft to be chased.
Set the lathe going, and give the tool a quick
twist with the wrist, so that a spiral will be traced
on the work, like Fig. 17^
Fig. 17.
Some part of this will correspond with the
pitch of the thread to be cut, and there is less
liability of making it drunken. By a little prac-
CHASERS, ETC.
37
tice, one is able to hit the pitch of the chaser ex-
actly in making a start.
" There is no trouble, after you once know
how." We have chased quantities of small
screws, with forty-eight threads to the inch, and
not a sixteenth of one inch in diameter. If the
chaser once hesitates on such screws, they are
spoiled. For heavy threads^seven and eight to
the inch, which is about as hard work as any one
wants to do, — it is the custom of some turners to
use a tool with only two teeth, and some nse only
a sharp-edged cutter, like Fig. 18, to deepen the
Fiff. 18.
thread, the chaser being used afterward, to recti-
fy the job. There is danger with this tool, unless
it is used by an expert, of digging out the thread,
'SO that the last end of it will be worse than the
ifirst.
Another tool, used in chasing heavy threads, is
•a doctor. This consists in having a fac-simile of
the thread to be cut on the back of the chaser,
and in applying a short set screw behind, so that,
4
38
MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE.
as the iron is cut awaj, the chaser may be fol-
lowed up behind. Fig. 19 is the doctor, but the
follower opposite the chaser is too narrow, and
should be made nearly half a circle to avoid slip-
ping ; with this exception it is all right.
These tools, and the screws made by them, are
all inferior to those made by lathes with tra-
versing mandrels ; that is, a mandrel which slides
in and out of the head stock, as in a Holtzapflel
lathe.
This lathe has a series of hubs, unlike the one
shown previously, slipped over the back end of the
Fiff. 19.
lathe spindle (furthest from the workman) and a
fixed nut on the head-stock, which, being put in
CHASERS, ETC. 39
communication with the hub on the mandrel,
drives the same in and out, according to the direc-
tion the cone-pulleys are turned. Of course, with
such an attachment as this, there is no danger of
making drunken threads, for the hubs which
start the threads, are cut with a train of gears in
an engine lathe, so that it is impossible for tliem
to be incorrect. Moreover, a square thread, or a
V-shaped thread, can be made with them, which
is not the case witli common chasers.
In lathes that have traversing mandrels to cut
screws, the tool itself remains stationary, but as
this is obviously a disadvantage in many kinds of
work, it is far better to have the tool advance and
the mandrel revolve as usual. By this plan much
time is saved, a greater range of work is possible
with the same gear, and a piece that is chucked,
or one that is between the centers, can be cut with
equal facilit}''.
Any common lathe can be rigged to do this by
putting a shell on the back end of the mandrel,
between the pulley and the set screw, and slipping
the hub over the shell, with a feather, to keep it
from turning. To take a thread from this hub,
a round bar must be set parallel with, the shears,
in easy- working guides. The bar must have an
arm at one end, to reacli over to the hub, said arm
to be fitted witli a piece of hard wood, to match
40 MANUAL OP THE HAND LATHE.
tbe thread on the hub. The other end of the bar
has the cuttiug tool in it ; of coarse, at right an-
gles, so as to run in to the work, and bear on the
tool rest. The tool is held in an arm on the bar
by a set screw, so that it can be lengthened or
shortened.
By this arrangement, a true thread can be
rapidly generated on any rod, hollow cylinder, or
other kind of work — the pitch depending on the
pitch of the hub.
It is necessary to have as many different hubs,
varying in pitch, as there are different kinds of
work to be done, and, although the thread on the
hub is only an inch or half an inch long, perhaps,
a screw of any length may be cut on a rod, by
simply shifting the cutter on the rest. This same
bar is also useful for turning, as with a slide rest,
for, by sliding it along gradually, it acts, in a
measure, like a fixed tool in a slide rest.
Fig. 30. From these hints the
amateur who takes a lathe
in hand for the first time
or is, at best, a neophyte,
may learn much to his
advantage. Persons of a
mechanical turn only need
a hint, when the mind springs to the conclusion
with surprising rapidity.
CHASERS, ETC. 41
The little tool, shown in Fig. 20, is verj handy
in many instances, particularly for running under
the necks of screws when the thread is cut up to
the head. By so making them, the head comes
fair down upon its bed, and holds much better.
4*
42 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE.
CHAPTER V.
CHUCKING.
Chucking work in the lathe is one of the most
interesting branches, for here there are no centers
in the way, to plague the workman, and the tool
has a fair sweep at all parts. Every one who uses a
lathe, should get a scroll chuck, Fig. 21, of Cush-
Fiff. 21.
man's make, (A. Cushman, Hartford, Connecticut,)
that is, a chuck where the jaws move up together
toward the center, so that any round piece will be
held perfectly true. This is a great convenience,
CHUCKING.
43
for whether we have a ring to bore out, or a
wheel to turn off, it is equally handy, and is far
better than the independent jaw chuck, which has
to be set up by mea- Fig
surement, and repeat-
ed trials before it is
right. To those who
cannot afford to pur-
chase a scroll chuck,
a wooden one can be
made to answer eve-
ry purpose. Wooden
chucks should be made
of some hard, fine-grained wood, such as maple or
mahogany, so that they will hold well whatever
is driven into them.
Fiff. 23. Fiff. 24.
If we have a small cylinder head to turn, for
instance, the back head, which has no hole in it
to put a mandrel through, as the front one has,
44
MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE.
the wooden chuck will come in play. To make
one, tlje turner takes a square block of the proper
Fig. 25.
thickness, say one inch, and saws the corners off,
so that it is eight-sided. It is then ready to screw
on the face plate of the lathe. This is quickly
done by having small screw holes in the plate for
this purpose, as shown in Fig. 1, page 17.
Fig. 26. The block is then all ready
to work on, and the face must
' be turned off true, and a recess
cut out in it to receive the head.
This is the head, Fig. 26.
On the back side, there is a
projection to fit the cylinder of
the engine. This must be turned first, and the
flange faced off true: after that the head must be
pryed out, (by making a little recess in the chuck,
CHUCKING.
45
alongside of it,) reversed, and put in the chuck again,
the finished side in, so as to polish it on the out-
side. Fig. 27. It must be driven up tight against
Fiff. 27.
the face of the chuck, otherwise the flange will be
thicker on one side than the other. In finishing,
it will be found better to commence near the cen-
ter, and work out toward the largest diameter, for
it is necessary to get under the scale, or sand, left
on in casting, first, before the work can be turned
true, and this is easiest done by beginning at the
middle, where the speed is low. The scale is
fused sand melted on the metal in the act of cast-
ing. The best tool to do this with is the diamond-
point, for it can be employed universally on
straight or hollow surfaces, is easily ground, and
always works well. After it, comes the scraper,
previously shown. It these chatter, a piece of
leather must be put between them and the rest.
It is also well to put a stout iron rod, or piece of
46 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE.
hard wood, between the back center of the lathe
and the face of the plate ; this keeps everything
steady, as shown below, so that a beautiful luster
will be given by the tool alone.
After the plate or head is firmly scraped, it
must be polished with flour emery and oil. The
emery first used must be No. 1, which is about
like Indian meal ; if the work is brass, however,
this will not be needed. This must be plentifully
supplied with oil, so that it is like cream, and the
workman, taking a soft pine stick, with the end
pounded into a brush, so that it will hold emery,
holds it hard up against the face of the head. If
it has been properly scraped, a few revolutions
will produce a fine-grained finish, but if it is badly
done, the corners will be full of scratches and
chatters. It takes time and experience to make a
good finisher, and patience also, for men who are
good turners, and can make excellent fits, are
sometimes botches at polishing.
After emery of the finest possible description
has been used, a little rouge powder should be
put on a piece of buckskin and applied to the
work. This will make a polish equal to gold on
brass, and like silver on iron. Instead of these
methods many persons burnish their work. The
burnisher is sometimes made of steel, of blood-
stone, and of agate. Steel is the material general-
CHUCKIXG. 47
]y employed. It is polished as bright as can be
on a buff wheel, and must be preserved so, other-
wise it is useless to attempt doing anything with
it. Pumice stone is very good for polishing with,
or rather for finishing the surface before polishing.
Other substances will be mentioned hereafter.
Steel and iron are best polished with a sharp tool
and water. To turn steel with a handsome sur-
face, the tool must be sharpened on an oil stone,
and the speed high, then spit on the work and
take light cuts, and you will have a nice job. To
make a very brilliant polish on steel, it is neces-
sary to use emery and oil, plenty of oil and not
much emery, but this makes such a nasty mess on
the lathe, that few good turners will do it. A file
should not be used in the lathe if possible ; filing
a job makes it uneven, and spoils the looks of it.
It is difficult to avoid scratches, and the expert
can generally tell the difference between work
that has been turned true, and that which has been
filed, and, in nearly all cases, it is quicker to turn
the work to fit or to finish at once.
In polishing round work, such as rods or shafts,
it is much cleaner, and more expeditious, to make
a pair of clamps like Fig. 28, and put the emery
and oil on leather pads between them. The clamps
consist of two straight pieces of soft or hard wood,
lined with leather, though some use sheet lead.
48 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE.
The leather catches the polishing material and
holds it, and, at the same time, keeps it continually
applied to the shaft. The clamps are slipped over
the same, and the ends held in the hand. This
utensil also gives a fine finish to the. work, making
it smooth and even. It must be carried regularly
alono- from end to end, sometimes fast and some-
times slow, so as to cross the lines, or avoid mak-
ing a twist in the polish like a screw thread,
which would otherwise be given. A very beau-
tiful and brilliant luster can be given to a shaft of
Fig. 28.
iron or steel, after it is nicely finished, by hold-
ing a sheet of fine sand paper ^ covered with chalk,
on it. The glaze that this gives, makes the work
glisten like silver, but it also takes off all the
grease, so that the shaft is very sensitive to
moisture, and is quickly rusted.
This discussion about polishing has led us
away from the consideration of chucking, which
we shall enlarge a little more upon.
CHUCKING. 49
The chuck is a very necessary and even indis-
pensable auxiliary when chasing. Threads can-
not be caught in the jaws of a scroll chuck, be-
cause, if set tight enough to hold the work, the
threads are jammed so that they will not run in
the part they were fitted to. If a piece, having a
thread cut on it, like Fig. 29, is to be turned out-
side, it is very easy to chase the j^jo. 29,
cap first and then the cup it fits,
so that the cap can be screwed
into it and turned off where it
belongs ; it will then be true,
and is easy to mill on the edge.
It must always be borne in
mind that the chaser must be sharp. If it is not,
drunken threads will be the rule, not the excep-
tion.
The chuck shown in Fig. 30, will be found
very useful for holding metallic disks, small
box covers, or anything that requires merely a
slight clasp; it is also useful for holding round
plugs, pencils of wood, or penholders, to drill in
the ends. It can be made eccentric with the
mandrel of the lathe, if desired, so as to turn a
piece on one side, or drill in a similar manner in
the end of a plug. It is merely a piece of box-
wood bored out, bored with holes, which are
sawed down into slots, so as to form a series of
5
oO
MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE,
jaws, wliicli are sprung in by sliding the ring
Fig. SO,
down on them. They are so easily mad^ that Sk
great many can be provided.
METAL SPINNING. 5L
CHAPTER VL
METAL SPINNING.
Spinning sheet metal into various forms is
another kind of work which can be done in the
foot lathe, and it is here that the amateur can
show his taste and dexterity.
The process consists in forming a blank, like
this engraving, into an ornamen- Fig. 31.
tal base for a lamp, or an oil cup ;
in fact, any thing whatsoever.
All that is requisite is to have a
fac simile, in wood, of the shape
you wish to make. This is bolt-
ed or otherwise made fast to the
face plate, and the blank is then set up against it^
and held as the cylinder head, shown in Fig. 26,
is , that is, with a rod leading from the back cen-
ter of the lathe to the work.
A tool like Fig. 32 is then used to press the
metal into all the recesses or curves of the pat-
tern. The speed must be high, and the metal
quite soft and moistened with a little soap-suds or
oil, so that it will not be scratched by the tool.
52
MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE.
To spin metal requires some dexterity, but it is
easilj'' acquired after a little practice. The rest
must be furnished with holes, like Fig. 33, and a
Fig. 32. Fig. 33.
pin, so that the tool can be brought up against it
like a lever.
Still -another kind of metal spinning can be
done in the lathe. This relates to making circu-
lar shapes, or cylindrical, more properly — such as
napkin rings, the tops of steam pipes, or similar
Fig. 34.
things. To do this, a mandrel is requisite. The
mandrel must be of steel, and turned to the de-
sired pattern — like Fig. 34, for instance,
A ferrule is then made and soldered tos^ether
METAL SPINNING. 53
with lapped edges, so that there will be no seam.
The mandrel must be as much smaller than the
size of the finished work as will allow it to come
off freely, for it will be apparent that if the work
was spun up on the mandrel, it could never be
taken off'.. The ferrule, when put on them, will
stand eccentric to the mandrel, as Fig. 35.
in this figure — that is, when the
tool bears on it. In other re-
spects the process is just the
same as spinning on the face
plate. Tripoli, chalk, whiting,
rotten -stone, and similar sub-
stances are used to give the fine polish on such
work.
We know of no prettier or more expeditions
process of making a small steam boiler for a toy
engine, than by spinning it upon the lathe. The
boiler will be very strong, have large fire surface,
and be without joints, having only one at the bot-
tom, where it is easily kept tight. Fig. 36 is the
boiler.
The metal must be thin (twenty gauge), the
sheet brass sold in the shops will answer, as it is
already annealed, and the corrugations must not
be too deep on the sides, or the work will not
come off" the mould. The center of the fire-box,
A, must be left fiat, so that the flue will have a
5*
54
MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE.
bearing on it. For a small engine, 1-inch bore,
and 2-iuch stroke, a boiler of the dimensions
given here is ample. The flue must be brazed or
soldered at A, and the bottom must be riveted at
B, for every two inches ; this is not necessary,
however. There are only three pieces in this
boiler — the shell, the fire-box, and the flue, and
the water must not be carried more than three-
fourths of an inch over the crown of the furnace.
We shall now again revert to cutting tools.
Fig. se.
Probably many of our readers, who nse hand
lathes not furnished with slide rests, have wished
for that indispensable appendage where boring is
to be done. For ordinary turning, we do not ap-
preciate a slide rest on a hand lathe so much as
METAL SPINNING.
55
many do that we know, but for boring out valves,
cocks, or, in fact, anything, a scroll chuck and a
good slide rest are invaluable.
Some persons are always " meaning " to do a
thing, yet never do it. Sometimes, for the want
of facilities, at others for the lack of an idea. If
the latter be of any value, we can furnish one or
two on this subject that may be useful.
One way to, bore out holes parallel, without a
slide rest, is to do it with the spindle of the back
head. With a tool of peculiar construction, holes
varying in size, can be bored beautifully in this
way. We present a view of such a tool in Fig.
Fiar. 37.
37. It is merely a cross, formed on the end of a
center fitting the back spindle, the same as the
lathe center does. The arms of the cross are
made stout and thick, so as to admit of a sqnare
hole being cut in them. The hole is made bv
56
MAXUAL OF THE HAND LATHE.
drilling in and driving in a square drift afterwards
to take off the corners. The shanks of the tools
are well fitted to these holes in the arms, so that
a slight pressure of the screws in the sides of the
arm will hold them steady. When used, the tool
is put in the back spindle, and the cutters set to
the size required, or less, if there is much to take
out, and run through the work in an obvious man-
ner. Any range of size can be had up to the di-
ameter of the cross. It is not well to run the
cutters out too far, however, as they will jump and
chatter, or spring, and make bad work. The tool
Fig. 38.
is so easily made that one can afford to have three
or foar, for different jobs.
Another plan, but not so good, is to make a
common center and disk, like Fig, 38,
METAL SPINNING.
57
Here the cutters liave a slot in them, through
which a bolt passes and screws into the disk ; a
small piece of wood put at the bottom of the tool,
between it and the cutter, prevents it from slack-
ing off so as to diminish the cut. These tools will
be found useful, and will do good work if proper-
ly handled. This latter tool is better for wood,
but will answer for any metal by varying the
cuttter.
To make a slide rest, in the common way, is a
costly and tedious job. For all purposes of boring,
a good one may be made as shown in the following
engraving, Fig. 39.
Fig. 39,
This is simply a casting fitted with a screw and
spindle, as shown. The spindle has a tool let in
the front end and held there by a set screw, and
there is a wheel at the back end to run the spin-
dle in and out. The casting has a leg to it which
58 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE.
enables it to fit the common post the rest for the
hand tool fits. There is also a key to prevent the
spindle from turning round. By this arrange-
ment it is easy to bore, not only parallel holes of
any size, but tapering ones, which is often a
great convenience. By a simple change of tool,
it can also face off' any casting, and can easily be
made to cut a thread, of a given pitch, by any in-
genious workman. Not only this, but it can also
be made without planing ; or other work most
amateurs have no facilities for. It is within the
range of ordinary lathe work, and will be found
indispensable. The T-head may be of cast iron,
but the spindle should be steel, with a brass nut
let in the back end for the screw to work in.
ORNAMENTAL CUTTING. 59
CHAPTEE VII.
ORNAMENTAL CUTTING.
I SHALL now give some examples of turning dif-
ferent things which are useful and interesting to
work. These are only hints, and I make no claim
to discovery, or to anything specially novel or
ingenious. It would be very foolish to do that,
for what seems remarkably " cute " to the de-
signer of any particular thing, is often shown to
be slow and unmechanical, compared to other
ways by other men. I hope, therefore, that the
expert will bear in mind the fact that, while he
may know better ways to do the same thing, be-
ginners are glad to receive instruction first, and
improve upon it, so much as they are able, after.
To MAKE A PAIR OF SOLITAIRE SLEEVE BUTTONS.
—Solitaire buttons are those which have so lately
come in fashion ; that is, a single stud with two
eyes on the back for the button-holes of the
wristband. It is easier to make one stud on the
back of the button, and easier to fasten it to the
shirt, as that is the kind I shall describe.
Go to any dealer in box-wood, and procure
60 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE.
waste stuff, which he will sell at a small price.
Take a piece an inch square, put it in the chuck,
and turn it round on one end as far as you can,
then reverse it, and turn the other end ; this will
make a round plug. Take a ten-cent piece, and
rig. 40. Fig. 41.
chuck it, either in a wooden or scroll chuck. Cut
out the center, so that you have a silver ring. It
will be necessary to have two rings, one for each
button. Put the box-wood in the lathe and turn
the end as in Fig. 41. On the shoulder you are to
shrink the silver ring just made, Fig. 40. To
Fig. 43. fasten the ring properly, you
have only to leave the center
part of the box-wood a little
larger than the silver ring — say
the thickness of a sheet of paper
— heat the ring slightly on a
stove or over a spirit lamp, and
clap it on to its place. When it is cool, if proper-
ly done, no power can remove it without destroy-
ing the button. When the ring is in place, it
ORNAMENTAL CUTTING.
61
only remains to turn it off as ornamentally as the
workman desires. The edge may be milled, and
Fig. 43.
the face chased or left smooth. The center of the
button, which is of wood, may be drilled in, and
62
MANUAL OF TPIE HAND LATHE.
a square ebony plag put in, which will give it a
unique appearance, as shown in Fig. 42. In like
manner ivory buttons may be turned and breast-
pins spun up, either in gold or silver. Brass
breastpins may be ornately turned, and afterwards
electro-plated for a trifle. They will thus be
cheaply made, and the ingenious turner can ploase
his lady friends by presenting them with speci-
mens of his dexterity and taste.
At the commencement of this book, I alluded
to lathes with traversing mandrels, and to varieties
of work done by tools not generally employed —
that is, those which are not used by the hand, but
in connection with the lathe, and driven by belt-
ing from a counter shaft over head. I give an
illustration of such a tool, in one form, in Fig. 43,
It may be screwed in the tool post of the slide
Fig. 44. ■ rest, or otherwise at-
tached to the lathe,
and the belt from
the counter shaft
carried over the
small pulley. The
driving pulley over
head should be very large, so as to give a great
velocity to the cutter, at least fifteen hundred
revolutions per minute. The use of this tool is to
make ornamental designs — circular carving, it
ORNAMENTAL CUTTING. 63
might be called — on all kinds of turned work, as,
for instance, in Fig. 44, where a small box for
pins or needles is shown. This box is made bj
putting a piece of hard, fine-grained wood in the
chuck, boring the hole and cutting the thread. It
is then removed, driven on a round mandrel held
in the chuck, turned off round outside, and then
prepared for the pattern as follows : — The design
settled upon, the index plate must be brought into
use, and the points inserted in such holes as will
bring the pattern out right, or all the spaces equal
— just as the teeth of gears are cut. The tool
shown in Fig. 43, may be any desired shape. In
the example of work. Fig. 44, it is m-ade half
round, and the pattern is called " bamboo," from
a resemblance to wickerwork. The pattern is
made to break joint, as mechanics say, that is, it
alternates, so that the commencement of one part
meets in the middle of the other. After one
course is made all the way round, the tool is
shifted on to another course, and the index
changed as above mentioned, until the whole has
been gone over. This produces a beautiful effect.
It is easy to see that a change of pattern is pro-
duced at will, by altering the kind of tool and
the index. As, for instance, in Fig. 45, where
the pattern is entirely straight. When the de-
sign is to be cut on such work, it is extremely
convenient to have a pair of centers to set on the
6-i MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE.
lathe, across the bed ; then the fljing tool is not
needed, nor the index on the lathe pulleys either,
that on the centers being used instead. When
this box is held between the centers so as not to
mar it, the handle may be turned and the work
run along under the cutter, with great facility-
The grooves shown in the box are first drilled at
each end with a common drill, just to the corner
of the drill, so that a neat and handsome finish is
given ; a Y-shaped cutter is then put in a mandrel
Fig. 45.
between the centers of the lathe, and the pulleys
set going, so that when the work is run under
the tool, the slot or groove will be formed. The
circlet, at the top of the box, is made by a crescent
drill ground very thin and made sharp — a drill
like a fish's tail, only formed on a half circle.
Of course, these methods of doing this kind of work
can, as I have said before, be varied infinitely, and
are only cited as applicable to a common foot lathe.
CENTERS. 65
CHAPTER YIII.
CENTERS.
An indispensable article on a foot lathe, where
any fancy work is to be done, is the centers — of
which I have before spoken — shown in Fig. 46.
These consist of a common set of heads, with
spindles fitted to them. One spindle has an index
plate and spring, and the other has a common
center. These heads set on a slide that is moved
back and forth over a rest, screwed to the lathe
bed as usual. It is easy to see that, with this, we
can do some very fine cabinet work. Suppose we
have a round vase turned up handsomely, and
wish to flute the base or make it a series of curves
all round ; to do this, we have only to put it in
the centers, set the index so as to come out even,
as before explained, and go ahead.
The kind of cutter to be used is a sort of gouge,
set in a cast-iron head, something as a plane iron
is set in its stock. That is, fitted tight to a groove
and held by a set screw. Two of these cutters
should be used, at equal distances apart, and the
cutter head should be keyed on a short shaft, set
6*
6Q
MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE.
between the main centers of the lathe. The
Fig. 46.
whole should be accurately balanced, or else the
work will be full of chatters or ridges. Since
centrifugal force increases as the square of the
CENTERS.
67
velocity, any thing that runs a little out of truth,
will be very much exaggerated as the speed in-
creases. By using cutters of different shapes,
beautiful effects can be produced ; as, for instance,
suppose we take a common round-nose cutter, set
the index so as to divide the circle of the job we
are to work on in twenty-four parts, and execute
Fig. 47.
that part of the design, then take a tool forming
an ogee, and work out the spaces intervening, we
shall find that the article, when completed, will
have a beautiful appearance, and that, instead of
being round, the bottom will be octagonal, which
will present a pleasing contrast to the rest.
The centers can be set at any angle with the
cutter shaft and a pineapple pattern can be made
68 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE.
on straight surfaces, by executing one part at one
angle, then reversing the rest that carries the
centers, and finish the remainder, one part of the
pattern crossing the other,
I present here views of a novel ornament which
exhibits great mechanical ingenuity and manual
dexterity, but is otherwise of no value. It con-
sists, in one form, of a globe with a series of rings
or globes inside, and a six-armed spur projecting
through holes — all cut out of one solid piece. Fig.
47
Fig. 48.
Fig. 48 shows how the points are turned. After
the internal rings are cut out with a quadrant tool
like Fig. 49, and the spur also severed, by cutting
in the ends o^ the holes (not boring them out
CENTERS.
69
solid), tb. globe is put in a shell chuck, with
three set screws in it, as shown. The set screws
go through the holes in the globe, and the cross
Fiff. 49
pieces, in between the spurs, serve to steady the
job. Any number of points may be turned in
the globe. Fig. 50 shows a polygon with many
Fiff. 50.
spurs turned inside. At first sight it would ap-
pear that the tool, severing the rings, would cut
off the points also, but it will be seen that this is
not the case, for the holes being bored so as to
70 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE.
leave a core standing (which afterward serves to
make the points of the spur), the severing tool
falls into the holes and goes no further, and each
division serves as a guide for the tool in the next
hole, so that the globe is made the same size,
without jags. The quadrant tool, shown before,
must be followed round the shell in the act of
cutting it out, so that it will make the same round,
and the globe must be shifted in the chuck, to
reach all the holes. It is no easy task to make
this little affair, for all it looks so simple.
FANCY TURNING.
71
CHAPTER IX.
FANCY TUENING.
Fig. 51 is another, a little more ornate and of a
different pattern. The process is essentially the
same, except that there are no spurs and a solid
disk is left inside. This disk is turned out of a
Fig. 51.
ball, left inside the exterior shell. One side of it
is squared up before the ball is cut free from the
globe, and the job is then reversed and the other
side squared. The ball is then cut free, and the
72
MANUAL OP THE HAND LATHE.
loose disk is held fast between a flat-ended driver
in the live spindle, and a loose, flat-ended button
on the back center. The diameter is then decided
through the hole which is toward the reader.
A little tool, which is very convenient for mak-
Fig. 52.
ing small screws, is here shown in Fig 52, rather
out of place, but it was overlooked before. In
construction it explains itself. Holes of different
sizes are made in a steel rod, and the end filed into
shape, as seen. It has been found difficult by
some to make these cutters work, but that was
because they were not properly made. The
trouble lies in drilling the hole. When the drill
starts at first, the hole is larger on the outside, so
that the screw blank, when cut, gets tighter as it
goes in, and twists it off.
The remedy is, to drill the hole in some dis-
tance and then turn off the outside end, so that it
gets where the bore is the same size. This refers
FANCY TURNING. 73
only to small bolts, a sixteenth of an inch in dia-
meter ; where they are large, the trouble men-
tioned is not experienced.
It is convenient to have two sizes in the tool so
that the heaviest part of the work can be done by
one cutter, the tool reversed by turning it over in
the fork of the jaws, and finishing the blank with
the last cutter. A watchmaker's fine saw is to be
used to sever the screw from the rod. The tool
itself is to fit in the spindle of the tail stock, and
the screw wire is held by a drill chuck.
In the matter of ornamental work, there are
other details and plans in vogue among expe-
rienced turners, which can only be alluded to, not
discussed at length, for the reason that the styles
are so numerous that an elaborate work might be
made of them alone, with great profit. The scroll
chuck or geometrical chuck, as it is sometimes
called, is a complicated piece of mechanism, too
costly for general use, and too limited in its ap-
plication, to mechanics in general, to be of much
utility. It does such work as may be seen on
bank bills. The chuck plate, on which the work
is fixed, is connected, by a train of gearing on its
back, with a fixed gear about the spindle on the
head stock, so that when the relation, these gears
bear to one another is altered, the motion of the
work on the chuck is accelerated or retarded, or
7
74
MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE.
is made to assume certain positions. An elliptic
chuck is quite another thing, the work done by
it is shown in Fig. 53, which consists, chiefly, of
ornamental designs disposed in a certain order.
In fact, the changes that can be made are infinite.
Fig. 53. Mandrels — arbors, as
many call them — are very
useful tools. Mandrels
are made of wood and
steel — usually steel, and
never of wood, unless for
some special reason. As,
for instance, when a
large brass ring has to be
turned. For this use a
wooden mandrel is cheaper and more quickly
made than a steel one. Besides, it is quite as
good. Wooden mandrels should have iron cen-
ter plates let in them, so that they will run true ;
if the center was made in the wood itself, it would
be liable to run out. Take a piece of sheet iron,
one eighth of an inch thick and one inch square,
hammer the corners thin, then turn them over at
right angles with the plate. This gives four
sharp comers, so that, when driven in the end of
a block, it will not slip ; three small screws will
hold the plate to the mandrel so that it cannot get
loose. The center must then be countersunk, as
FANCY TURNING. 75
any other is. Such a mandrel, made of hard
wood, hickory for instance, will last a long time.
Fibrous wood such as white oak, makes a good
mandrel, for the reason that work, driven on it,
compresses the fibers instead of scraping them, so
that the size of the mandrel is unchanged,
Steel mandrels should be turned two in one, or
largest in the middle, for small work, each end
being a different size. Each end should be tho-
roughly centered with a drill, and countersunk,
and a flat place filed so that the dog will hold ;
iiot a scratch with a tool should ever be made in
one, though few persons will take the pains to
avoid doing this.
It is unnecessary to tell the mechanic he must
have a rack for his tools, but we may tell the be-
ginner so, and he will find it a great convenience.
Now-a-days, the twist drills, made and sold in
all the tool stores, are so uniformly superior to
any thing that can be made by hand, or by indi-
viduals, and are, moreover, so cheap, that it is
foolish to make drills. Those who have never
used them, should not fail to order sets. They
run all sizes, from a needle to an inch.
There are not a few turners who spoil work
simply from heedlessness. Not because they do
not know any better, but because they are averse
to taking a little extra pains. If a mandrel runs
76 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE.
out of truth a very little, sooner than alter it, or
make a new one, they will try to " make it do.'
The result is easily seen when work is to be put
together. Moreover, many persons use little cau-
tion in setting their work in the lathe. Instead
of always putting it in the same place, driving it
from the same side of the face plate, it is entered
at hap-hazard. It is not good to get into the habit
of doing work in this way, for it soon leads to
recklessness.
Some are too lazy to go and grind their tools,
when they know it should be done, and continue
to use them to the ultimate damage of the work.
It is easy for the practiced eye to see these appa-
rently small things, for they constitute a great part
of the difference between a good workman and a
bad one.
ORNAMENTAL WOODS. 77
CHAPTER X.
ORNAMENTAL WOODS.
In the matter of wood working, the amateur
has a field as wide and attractive as the most en-
thusiastic could wish. Of course, under this head
only those that are ornamental are considered,
leaving the plainer and rougher materials for do-
mestic purposes.
VARIETIES.
Most amateurs ransack the stores of dealers in
foreign woods, for rich and rare varieties, leaving
our own native woods for others, of deeper hue
and harder grain. Yet it would be difficult to
find more beautifully veined wood than chestnut,
butternut, some varieties of ash, the root of the
black walnut, California rosewood, and oak ; all
of which are indigenous.
In foreign woods there are innumerable varie-
ties, but as comparatively few of them are to be
had, there can be nothing gained to the amateur
by mere enumeration. I have said comparatively
few are to be had in shops, and that is true for
78 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE.
this reason ; the woods the amateur can readily
obtain, are the woods of commerce ; that is, those
used in the arts and trades. No one imports
woods at a venture, or on chance of sale. Dealers
know their customers, and when, by chance, they
find a captain of some foreign trader, who has a
fancy lot which he has brought over, they send
word to their best buyers, who come and view
the lot, and take that which suits them, and the
rest, worm-eaten and " wind-shaken," it may be,
is either burnt up, or thrown on one side for some
button maker, who may find in the short odds
and ends a profitable bargain. I shall, therefore,
mention but a few of the leading varieties of
choice woods, and these the most marked and
contrasted. Very many differ only in the name,
and, as far as mere exterior goes, are hardly dis-
tinguishable from each other, while others are
positively ugly.
SNAKE WOOD.
Prominent on the list of foreign woods is snake
wood, or, as it is sometimes called, leopard wood.
The markings and mottlings in this wood are
certainly superb in fine specimens. I have now
before me a small vase, made of this material,
which exhibits the most beautiful cloudings and
veinings. The pattern, so to speak, is in alternate
ORNAMENTAL WOODS. 79
black and red blotches, like those on the back of a
snake. AVhen varnished and French polished,
these are brought out in strong relief, and the
effect is very fine. There is one drawback to its
use, however, and that is its brittleness. Not-
withstanding the lathe be run at a high speed, it
will frequently sliver and crack in the most un-
looked-for and vexatious manner, and it is unsafe
to undertake any very delicate or fine work that
requires time and minute separation on the sur-
face in this material ; for general work, however,
which has mouldings and convolutions on it, it is
easily manipulated, and is susceptible of a brilliant
polish. Further : it has the advantage of being
"fast colors," which is more than can be said
of many other foreign woods. Whatever color
may be developed in turning, will be retained to
the end of time. This is not true of either tulip
or granadilla wood. Both of these are brilliant
in the extreme, when freshly cut, but by exposure
to the air, fade away into the most sombre colors.
TULir WOOD.
This is a moderately hard wood, of a peculiar sal-
mon-pink, veined with reddish brown and gray.
The veinings are chiefly parallel with the grain,
not straight, of course, but wavy and mottled.
As previously remarked, it is beautiful when first
so MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE.
cut, but gradually fades into a dingy, reddish
brown. It is a handsome wood for contrasting
with ebony, or any dark variety, and is chiefly
used for inlaying costly furniture, such as musical
iustvuiuents, work boxes, etc., etc. It is undeni-
ably handsome, however, and by no means to be
disparaged.
GRANADILLA.
This is ooiumonly called cocoa wood. It is
hard, finely-veined, and capable of a handsome
polish. It is largely used in the manufacture of
tabic and pocket cutlery, for the handles. It
conies in logs, from two to eight inches in dia-
meter, and is one of the most easily worked
woods. Quantities of it are employed for the
'handles of seals or letter stamps, in which instru-
ments its brownish yellow color and markings
must be familiar to many. It fades, however, so
that in time it becomes almost uniform in its tone.
TAMARIND.
This wood is very unfrequently met with. I
obtained, by chance, a large log of a wood- worker,
and was highly pleased with it. It can scarcely
be called variegated, except so finely as to be un-
uotieeable, but for a rich brown color and tint it
is unapproachable. It is chocolate brown in hue,
ORNAMENTAL WOODS. 81
and so hard and close in fibre, as to rive like the
husk of a cocoanut, while under a burnisher alone
it polishes like ivorj. It is seldom one meets
with a wood so wholly satisfactory, in its general
nature, for all kinds of work where a hard grain
and fine surface is desirable.
CAM WOOD.
This is a dye wood ; that is, the shavings
boiled in water, or treated with alcohol, yield a
handsome dye, which is largely used in the arts.
It is moderately hard, in about the same degree
as mahogany, and is plain in surface ; it is hand-
some for inlaying and veneering in contrast with
ebony, but changes to a brown with age.
BOX WOOD.
This is so well known to be a fine-grained, buff
yellow color, and easily worked wood, as to need
little further explanation of its characteristics. It
is becoming scarcer and dearer every year, but is
of little general value to the amateur from its
monotonous sameness ; one piece being like all the
others ; whereas, with snake wood, or granadilla,
perpetual surprises await one. Eefuse box wood,
in odd-shaped pieces, can be bought very cheap
from those who make it a business to fit up blocks
for engravers, and also from wood-type makers.
82 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE.
LAUREL ROOT.
This is a peculiar wood, and, in my opinion,
more peculiar than pretty. It has a singular
feeling under the tool, cutting much like cheese or
gum ; like any thing else, in fact, but wood. In
veining, it closely resembles brier wood and bird's
eye maple ; pipes have been made of it. It is
quite sound, but cannot be said to be handsome.
It is the root of the common swamp laurel, I am
told, and requires long seasoning and drying to
be manipulated.
WHITE HOLLY.
This is a pure white wood, very easily bent,
turned, and cut, straight of grain, and very useful
for inlaying. Quantities of needle cases, fans, and
such wares, are made of it. It is a native of this
country, though the best is said to come from
England. This seems quite unnecessary, for I
have picked out of my wood-pile quantities of
white holly, as handsome in color and in grain, as
one could wish to see.
EBONY.
Every one has his prejudice, and I have no
doubt but that many will consider me lacking in
taste if I condemn this wood. It has one sole re-
deeming feature — blackness — which renders it in-
ORNAMENTAL WOODS. 83
dispensable in many cases. Yet I have seen rock
maple dyed black, that put ebony to shame for
richness of color and fineness of grain. No ebony
that I ever saw was black, naturally. It was
brown, and became black by oiling and varnish-
ing. There is a variety, called " bastard ebony,"
which is full of whitish brown stripes, and is soft
like pine, but the true ebony is not to me a pre-
cious wood, although it is expensive, and, in some
cases, undeniably handsome. In spite of all se-
lection, aided by good judges, I have frequently
found my " black ebony " any thing but black ;
it is full of season streaks and cracks, and splits in
the most perverse and unexpected manner.
OLIVE WOOD,
This is the wood of the olive tree, and is chiefly
valuable for its odor ; that is, to those who like
that odor. In color it is like white wood, and is
without any marked feature, except that of scent.
SANDAL WOOD.
This is a fragrant wood, light buff-colored, and
very soft, and straight in grain. In general it is
like pine wood, splitting straight, working easily,
and valuable solely for its odor.
8-i MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE.
EOSE WOOD.
This is an exceedingly beautiful wood, and is
so well known, in its general nature, as to need
no recommendation. In marking, it is so delicate
as to admit of the finest work, and jet retain the
beauty of the pattern.
CURLED MAPLE.
This is one of the most beautiful of our native
woods ; in point of color, and power of retaining
it, in marking and in variety, it is, to me, one of
the most beautiful of all woods. The vein has a
sinuous sweep and curve to it, which is heightened
by varnishing and polishing, to a marked degree.
All of the handsome woods, however, have a pecu-
liar intractability, so to speak, which renders them
slow and tedious to work. In fact, it is just this
stubbornness of grain which renders them beauti-
ful, for, by running in all directions, interlacing
the fibres, so that the end of the grain is alter-
nately presented side by side with the parallel
grain, the light is caught and retained on dead
surfaces that absorb it, making those beautiful con-
trasts which the most uncultivated admire.
bird's eye MAPLE.
This is also a handsome wood, full of round
spots interspersed with circular markings, the
ORNAMENTAL WOODS. 85
whole forming a handsome contrast when well
handled. Pear and apple tree woods are also
handsome, but none of the native woods exhibit
BO great variety in tint and markings, as those
which grow in tropical countries. There is no
occasion to continue a mere list of woods which
can be found in any shop, and this branch of .the
subject will be dropped.
TREATMENT.
The first thing that occurs to the workman
when he possesses or sees a handsome piece of
wood, is: What shall I make with it? Many
kinds of wood show well in large works, but in
smaller wares, such as sleeve buttons, and napkin
rings, they look like common wood ; it is, there-
fore, labor lost to spend time in working out a
nice job to show the veining and marking of the
wood, because such veining is not brought out
fully. The first care is to select sound wood. It
is one of the most vexatious things in the world
to have a nice job nearly done, and find a large
worm hole extending right through the center of
it, interfering with the tool and destroying the
beauty of the piece. In such a case, the only re-
sort is to plug it up, but no matter how skillfully
this is done, the plug is certain to show, and
always mars the appearance. Some kinds of
86 MANUAL 0^ THE HAND LATHE.
foreign woods are almost always worm eaten.
Snake wood, for instance, is very liable to that
fault, and too mucli care cannot be taken in ex-
amining it. Ebony is not so liable to it, and
native woods are peculiarly free from it.
WOOD TURNING. 87
CHAPTER XL
WOOD TURNING.
In turning wood, tlie speed cannot be too high,
or the tool too sharp. The faster the speed, the
more perfect the surface produced by the tool. In
centering, also, it is necessary to use care in get-
ting a sound place to begin on ; otherwise, when
in the middle of a job, the centers change and the
work is spoiled. This, of course, relates to work
that is turned on centers, such as chess-men, pen-
holders, rulers with ornamental ends, " what-not "
legs ; in fact, anything of that class. The driving
center or one that goes in the head of the lathe,
commonly called the live center — in opposition to
the one in the back end of the lathe head, which
does not move, and is called the dead center —
should be properly made, or Fig. 54.
much confusion will be the re- |
suit. Very many use the com- ^
mon bit, like Fig. 54, which is ■
a very poor device for the purpose. There
being no guard at the corners of the bit, they are
liable to slip when strain is brought on the work
MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE.
Fig. 55.
bj the tool ; it is, therefore, necessary to make
the driving bit, or center, like Fig. 55, which re-
presents a section through the front edge and the
flat pieces at the top, to prevent the work from
slipping.
In turning very small work, say penholders
for example, I have
found centers useless
to drive from, and
after trying dogs, com-
monly used for metal
turning, and many
other devices, have found no more efficient or
expeditious plan than to round the end of the
wood slightly with a pocket-knife, as in Fig. 56 ;
insert the rounded end in a chuck, and place the
other in the back center. In this way, I am able
to command the whole range of the work,
Fig. 56. from end to end,
without interference,
and to have the
small tip where it is
necessary to have it to keep steady ; that is, near
the center.
I saw all my pieces for turning, into square
strips. I never split them ; splitting shivers and
cracks hard and precious wood, and makes un-
sound that which was previously sound.
WOOD TURNING. 89
Besides, it is more economical and more ex-
peditious. If you cannot saw them yourself,
handily, take them to the nearest wood-worker
who has a circular saw, and he will do it for a
trifle.
90 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE
CHAPTER XII.
TOOLS FOR WOOD TURNING.
It does not seem necessary to go into the dis-
cussion of tools, or shapes of tools, for wood
turning, for the grand and great reliance for
roughing is the gouge, and a skillful workman
will do as many things with it as the Eussian
carpenter is said to do with his axe, which is al-
most his only tool. For smoothing, there is the
flat chisel, and for special work, every one will
find tools, or, rather, make those he finds best
suited to his needs.
I would, however, here saj'- with great earnest-
ness, that it makes all the difference in the world
what kind of steel you get in your tools, whether
they are worth any thing or not. I never found
any turning tools in stores, that I considered
worth any thing. They are generally made for
working soft woods, such as pine, but the amateur
needs tools of a different class and temper. Hard
woods are full of dust on the outside, and seem
more or less impregnated with silica, the principle
which forms the coating on the stalks of rye and
TOOLS FOE WOOD TURNING. 91
cereal grains generally, which destroys the cutting
edge in a short time, and also draws the temper.
I have therefore found it convenient to make my
own tools out of the best steel I could buy, and
temper them myself. The difference is very
marked, for where I formerly went to the grind-
stone every few minutes, I now use a tool a long
while, thus saving many steps and minutes.
I therefore repeat — choose your steel from such
as you find the best, and harden it yourself. If
you don't know how, a few trials will enable you
to do it " everytime," as the saying is. I have
found Sanderson's, Jessops, and Stubbs, all good
steel ; also Park Brothers American steel first-rate
for general work. No doubt there are some who
will take up this book, and for the first time read
of the matters contained therein, to whom harden-
ing and tempering are " all Greek ;" to such I will
explain the process.
Yery often amateurs buy tools which are good
if they were only properly hardened, and to them
also, it may be of service — if they do not already
know it — to be able to do this simple thing.
92 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE.
CHAPTER XIII.
TOOL TEMPERING, ETC.
The great object is to harden at as low a heat
as possible, so as not to injure tlie steel. The
tool must not be treated as a blacksmith does
iron, nothing like so hot, but so as to be of a dull
cherry color. Steel that will not harden at this
heat is poor stock. When so heated, plunge it
into cold water. This will make the tool hard
and brittle, like glass, so that it is not fit to cut
with; you must then rub it bright on a piece of
emery paper or a grindstone, and hold it in the fire
for a second or so at a time, until the temper is
drawn to the right degree of toughness and tenaci-
ty. This will be, for turning-tools for hard wood,
of a dull blue-brown, say violet, color. Straw
brown is hard enough to cut steel, and you do not
want such a temper for wood in general, but for
some purposes, it is desirable to have a very hard
tool. When the edge crumbles, it is too hard, and
must be lowered in temper ; when it rounds over,
or dulls quickly, it is too soft, and needs to be
TOOL TEMPERING, ETC.
93
hardened. This much in the way of tools of
which more will be said hereafter.
Many things are not held in the centers at all,
but are grasped by chucks, of different patterns
or shapes. This, to me, is the most satisfactory
way of turning, inasmuch as it allows perfect
liberty and sweep in all directions, and does not
restrict the fancy or imagination of the work-
man.
It is not necessary to mention what kinds of work
can be done, for that will occur to every one, but
I will merely give here an illustration of the fa-
Fig. 57.
Fig. 58,
cility which the chuck affords for all kinds of
work. Fig. 57 is a box cover, and being held at
first by the corners, permits the inside to be
turned out to fit the bottom. Afterwards, what-
ever finish or pattern is desired, can be given to
the top. There is in every lathe, a center screw,
like Fig. 58, which is useful for holding work
94: MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE.
that has, or is to have, a hole in it, but for fine
work it is not suitable, for the obvious reason
that the screw spoils it. Fig. 57 is the scroll chuck,
and is a favorite instrument of mine. I could
dispense with many things— the face-plate of the
lathe for one — better than I could with this. If
I want to make a sleeve-button, there is mj
friend, the scroll chuck, ready to hold the piece
true to the center, without any adjustment what-
ever and hold it firmly, too. If I wish to bore out a
ring, the chuck will grasp true, and hold it with-
out spring : in fact, not to dilate unnecessarily, I
call it the one thing no turner can afford to be
without. There are many in the market, but the
best one for general work of this class, I have
found to be that made by A. F. Cushman, of
Hartford, Connecticut. He makes a very small
chuck, also, for holding drills, that is exceedingly
convenient for them, and for holding screw wire,
or any work of that class. The " Beach Chuck,"
made by the Morse Twist Drill Company of New
Bedford, Massachusetts, is also a good chuck, but
as I am not now discussing the merits of chucks,
I will return to the subject in hand — treatment of
woods.
I do not design, in this little work, telling any
one how to hold a tool, for it is to be presumed
that at least that part of the craft has been ac-
TOOL TEMPEKING, ETC, 95
quired. Even if I did essay to tell them, I could
no more impart such knowledge than one could
skate by seeing another person do it. Observa-
tion and practice are the only teachers.
96 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE.
CHAPTER Xiy.
ARTISTIC WOOD TURNING.
Some of the most beautiful work, really artis-
tic in every sense of tlie word, is made by laying
up woods of different colors, hut of the same general
character as regards hardness. If this latter pre-
caution, which I have italicised, be neglected, the
result will be wholly unsatisfactory, for where
two or more woods of different densities are laid
up together, side by side, the tool will act upon
the hardest very well, but will glide or spring
over the inferior material, and thus leave an un-
even surface. White holly and ebony work well
enough together, but I do not consider ebony a
hard wood. Of course there are many who will
dispute this assertion, but it is easy enough to
pick out specimens of any wood that are hard, but
what I mean to say is, that, in general, it is not a
truly hard wood, like rosewood or even cocoanut.
White holly is almost as soft as pine, and con-
trasts finely with the only natural black wood
that we have. There is one other black wood,
of which I have seen specimens, that is perfection
ARTISTIC WOOD TURNING. 97
itself, so far as color, grain, and strength are con-
cerned. Indeed, it can scarcely be said to have a
grain, so firm and solid is it in texture. It turns
like horn, or ivory, and is of the " darkest, deep-
est, deadliest," black. Unfortunately, I cannot
give the name of it, for the reason that the gentle-
man who gave it to me, did not know himself
what it was, and he obtained it from the captain
of a vessel trading to Africa.*
Mere white and black wood, side by side, do
not look well unless some kind of pattern or de-
sign is observed, and if the pattern is obtained
only at great expense of time and labor, it is also
unsatisfactory. I shall show, further along, how
different designs can be produced rapidly and ac-
curately, with but comparatively little labor.
By inlaying, too, many most beautiful designs
can be produced, with but little labor compared
to that which is generally bestowed upon such
work. This kind of ornamentation is beautiful
upon work tables, work boxes, cigar stands, paper
knives, fan handles, fancy boxes, inkstands, card
cases, vases, picture frames, penholders, sleeve
buttons, ear-rings, chess and checker men, napkin
rings, fancy drawer knobs, jewel caskets, watch
holders, glove boxes, in fact, the whole array of
*I have since learned that it is called African "Black Thorn."
9
98 MANUAL OP THE HAND LATHE.
fine cabinet wori:, looks better when neatly and
tastefully inlaid with woods that match and har-
monize with the subject, and with each other. I
think that some of the methods I practice are new
to most persons, and I am sure they will be found
accurate and expeditious ; which last is a point of
no small importance ; for when a person works a
long time over an elaborate thing, he gets terri-
bly tired of it after while, if it is slow and plod-
ding. In fact, where there is much that is uniform
in character, as in making a check pattern, in
black and white colors in squares, not over the
tenth of one inch wide — it is impossible to make
any thing like regularity, or fine fitting, and close
joints, by handling each piece separately,
I therefore have a variety of what I call
" stock " on hand, ready laid up, in all colors and
dimensions, so that I can choose from it exactly
as I would pick out a tool. This stock consists
of wood laid up in the patterns shown in Figs.
59-67, and of sizes varying according to my de-
signs, but generally very near the sizes here
shown.
These are laid up in long strips, say twelve
inches long, or as may be conveniently handled.
They are all sawed out with a fine circular saw,
by some one who understands cutting hard wood
for this purpose. The stuff must be shoved
AETISTIC WOOD TURNING.
99
through the saw with a very regular, gradual
feed, so as to cut a smooth surface, and if the saw
is not right for cutting smooth on the side, it
must be made so ; for it will not do to plane the
strips after they are sawed, as there never would
be any uniformity between them, and the joints
Fig. 59. Fig. 60. Fig. 61.
Fia;. 63.
Fig. 63.
Fig. 64. Fig. 65. Fig. 66.
Fig. 67.
would be very imperfect. In gluing them up,
there is nothing particular to be observed, except
that the glue must be very hot, laid on well with
a stiff brush, and the stuff clamped between two
thick boards, which have been planed perfectly
true on the faces ; so that the union will be perfect
between the strips. In this way the job will be.
100
MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE.
well done, and the sections will show uniformly.
As it is the sections that are mainly used, this is a
matter of great importance ; for when it is neces-
sary to have an ornamental border to a work-box,
for example, it is only requisite to saw off as
many sections, from the end of any of the blocks,
as may be desired ; as in Fig. 68. It is then a
Fig. 68.
Fig. 69.
simple and easy thing to lay them in, one after
another, in the place that has been left for them.
I do not saw off each square strip by itself be-
fore I glue the stock, but I lay up several flat
pieces, as in Fig. 69, which represents one end
section of the strips, longer than it
is high, the saw removes some in
cutting, so that when I saw down
through the top vertically, as
shown by the straight line A, T ob-
tain square strips in long pieces, but all glued to-
gether so they are easy to handle, these I after-
ward glue together again, so that white and black
AETISTIC WOOD TURNING. 101
alternate, as in tlie cliecker-board, and I then have
the pattern precisely uniform in all the length of
the stock. I claim originality for this plan, and
also expedition in execution ; more than either I
get entire uniformity. Of course it is easy to
make any other pattern in the same way, and it is
surprising to see how many rectangular and acute-
angled patterns can be made with these sections.
It is sometimes possible to get veneers of the
right thickness, but any veneer cutter will saw
the wood as desired.
Since the paragraph above was written, I have
seen some " Tunbridge Ware" work made in
England, which is, I am sure, done in the same
way. Therefore, I am not the originator of the
idea, but I can certify that it is a good and a
quick way of making very elaborate patterns.
102 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE.
♦i
CHAPTER XY.
STAMP INLAYING.
Of course there are times and places where the
sameness and rigidity of angular patterns are te-
dious, and the eye and hand, fatigued by it,
desire a change into something more graceful and
harmonious in effect. The smaller the pattern,
the more tedious, irksome, and expensive the
goods. To avoid delay is one object of the work-
man, but to obtain perfection is the chief. In
order to do this, we must have some plan or some
tool to multiply the same shape with great ra-
pidity and regularity.
In fine workmanship, or rather in small pieces,
it would be impossible to cut out any great num-
ber with the certainty of their being at all similar ;
some would be large, some small, and all different.
Let us imagine that it is desired to inlay a laurel
wreath, or a garland of stars in an elliptic pattern
about the edge of a box cover, as in Fig. 70. It
will be seen that to cut each one in with a chisel
would be an endless task. I therefore propose
to do it much quicker than it can be done by
STAMP INLAYING.
103
other plan, and that is by a stamp. I make a
Fig. 70.
steel stamp, or punch, of the exact size of the
pattern I wish to let in the box, and am careful to
have it bevel inwards, from the edges toward the
top, as in Fig. 71, not only to avoid breaking
down the edges, but to make a clean, sharp im-
pression in the
wood. It is ne-
cessary to cut in
pretty deep, for,
with all your care, you cannot avoid breaking the
edge to some extent, and it can only be practised on
Fig. 71.
104 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE.
any solid, sound wood, not veneered. Except for
large patterns, I do not put veneers in these inci-
sions, or stamp markings, as I coald not cut them
out so small, as the pattern shows in the engrav-
ing, but I either make a cement of white lead, and
push that into the holes, or, using the same
stamp I cut in the pattern in the wood with, I cut
pieces out of thin sheet German silver, and push
them in with great ease. If I use silver, I am
careful to cut in below the surface of the cover
on the box, so that I can put the cover in the
lathe again, and reflnish the top so as to be flush
with the silver. In this way I get a true, uniform,
and even pattern, which looks as if it had grown
in its place ; for grace and elegance of appearance,
it cannot be surpassed. Where it is absolutely
necessary to use a chisel and cutting tool to inlay
with, I still make stamps, even so large as half an
inch superficial area, for they are soon cut out,
and serve to mark the outlines for the chisel, so
that it is easier to cut the pattern by their aid.
In straight lines, or even in letting in circles,
parts of circles, ellipses, in fact, any curved or
angular work with veneers, I invariably cut the
pattern out before laying it on the box, and then
fit the other colored pieces in the spaces left.
Very many veneers cannot be handled at all when
dry, without breaking all to pieces and spoiling
STAMP INLAYING. 105
the pattern. It will be necessary to soak ebony,
for instance, for some time before you want to use
it. With this precaution, you can cut it in any
shape without danger. It is the same with maple
veneer. When I have cut out an intricate pat-
tern in ebony, and wish to inlay the same with
holly, I obtain an exact duplicate of the shape the
holly should have, by placing it, wet, over the
ebony, holding it firmly, so that it cannot slip,
and then rapping the holly with the end of a tool
handle. In this way a fac simile of the pattern is
transferred in wet lines to the holly, and you have
only to follow them over with a lead pencil to get
a perfect shape. Then take a sharp square-ended
knife, and laying the veneer on a hard surface,
cut slowly and carefully all round the marks, and
after a few incisions, you will have the satisfaction
of seeing it come out perfect.
106 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE.
CHAPTER XVI.
DESIGNS IN MOSAIC.
These methods greatly expedite the labor of
inlaying, for mere labor mucli of it is ; that is,
when repetition of the pattern is frequent, as it is
in small designs.
The great trouble and vice of amateur me-
chanics is haste; they are too anxious to see the
result of a design to give it proper attention in
detail, and, as a consequence, it lacks that nicety
and uniform elegance that characterize the shop-
made goods. For where men work by the day,
they are not too energetic as a rule.
DESIGNS IN MOSAIC.
By this I mean the employment of small bits of
different colored woods to produce a certain effect.
I have seen many that were made to represent
foliage of trees, the wood being stained green, of
course, but these works of art seem to me labor
thrown away, and, except as mere curiosities, are
in no wise attractive ; for no workman can do
DESIGNS IN MOSAIC. 107
more than imitate nature in this line, and it is a
poor imitation.
A legitimate branch of this line of work is that
wherein small bits, say of the size of Fig, 72, can
be conveniently used. When laid in nicely, and
the colors arranged to harmonize, they certainly
look well, resembling the straw j,. ^^
flower work, or inlaid straw ^ — ?>
work of Japan. The wood may
be dyed innj color desired, but it is much nicer to
use those colored by nature, which do not fade.
I give here a list of naturally colored woods, use-
ful for this kind of work.
Black — Ebony,
Red— Cam Wood, Tulip Wood.
Yellow — Boxwood,
White— Holly.
Brown — Walnut, Cocoa,
Red Brown — Spanish Cedar (cigar box).
These woods all inlay well except the Spanish
Cedar and Walnut, which are apt to chip and
sliver off on the edges, when cut thin. Cam wood
is a pretty red wood, very close in grain, but not
to be had in veneers, as it is used chiefly for
making dyes. Most of this kind of work looks
better when ranged in angles about a center,
though I recently saw a work-box in Boston,
which had an accurate representation of a worsted
108 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE.
pattern worked on a canvas, but as the workman
had unfortunately selected a very ugly pattern,
and the woods had faded, his labor was wholly
thrown away.
After having arranged or laid one course in
mosaic work, it is comparatively easy to follow
the whole around, but it is absolutely essential
that the pieces to be let in should be fac similes
of each other, for unless this is the case, the pattern
will come out wrong when the ends are joined, or
where it meets. Great care must be observed in
this, and as it would be almost impossible to cut
slips of veneer so small, and be accurate, I prefer
to take a slip of wood, and saw off of the end,
having, of course, previously planed and calli-
pered the stick perfectly true. Here let me say,
that the saw I use for this purpose, is the watch-
makers' dividing saw, the same as jewellers use.
Some of the saws are scarcely larger than a horse
hair, while others are three-tenths of an inch deep
and very narrow. With this instrument I can
work very delicately as regards thinness and
smoothness of surface. It is also admirable for
scroll sawing, of which more hereafter.
Of course, all these are small jobs, and small,
fine work; when it comes to more elaborate pat-
terns, such as a regenerally found on tables, work-
boxes, musical boxes, and similar things, it re-
DESIGNS IN MOSAIC. 109
quires more time, but as tlie pattern is large, it re-
quires no particular patience beyond that which
a very fine piece of work does. But where the
pieces are small, as in mosaic, it takes a great deal
of patience to pick up one after another, and no
small degree of artistic talent to bring them all in
in the right place.
10
110 MANUAL OP THE HAND LATHE.
CHAPTER XYII.
FINISHING THE OUTSIDE.
When the pattern has all been laid, the next
thing that remains is to finish the exterior, and
polish it or oil it as may be desired. To do this
it is, of course, necessary to use great care. The
veneers, if they have been used, are very thin,
about the twenty-fifth part of an inch, and there is
not much to come off. It must therefore be
scraped very carefully with a sharp scraper,
either in the lathe, or, if the work be a flat sur-
face, by a scraper held in the hand, and made of
sheet steel of the best quality. In using the
scraper, care must be taken to humor the grain
of the wood, so that it will not be roughened up
by being rubbed the wrong way. When it has
been scraped sufficiently smooth, it must be tho-
roughly rubbed with sand paper, until it has an
even, uniform surface all over. If it is to be var-
nished and polished, French polish as it is termed,
such as is seen on pianos, it will require a long time
and much experience to make it a success. The
reason is this : the polish is really given to the
FINISHING THE OUTSIDE.. Ill
gum of which the varnish is composed, and not to
the wood itself. The gum sinks into the pores of
the wood and fills them up, and hardens as it is
applied, but the fluids in which the gums are dis-
solved, either turpentine or oil, evaporate compar-
atively slowly, so that before each coat is applied,
the previous one must be dry and hard, or else
the next one will be streaky, and the surface will
be ridgy.
The length of time depends greatly on the
weather ; from three to six months being re-
quired to properly dry and harden a piano-case so
that it will wear — six months is, however, ex-
treme, and is only the case in very warm weather.
It will easily be seen why so many amateurs fail
in producing that vitreous glaze, or polish, which
is so universally admired. Not one in fifty has
patience enough to wait until the first coat dries,
before the second is applied, and they keep trying
the varnish, to see if it won't work, in a day or
two after it has been put on. It sometimes takes
ten days before the third coat is ready to apply
the next. It is a common fault to apply too much
varnish on the first coat. It is necessary to rub
it into the grain of the wood, so that it is tho-
roughly charged with it, and sinks into the pores.
By rubbing it is merely meant to take a little on
the brush and cover the surface gradually, without
112 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE.
trying to make it look well or ill. The ground
work has to be put on first, before any thing can
be done toward ornamenting. After one coat has
been put on, it must be rubbed down with sand pa-
per to remove any varnish that may not have sunk
into the work, and when all is fair and smooth and
dry, a second coat may be applied and treated in
the same way. The third coat may be applied
rather more freely, and must be left to get tho-
rougly hard before treating it. It must then be
rubbed freely with pumice stone flour, and water.
This will leave it bright and hard if the varnish
has been skillfully put on, and a coat of flowing
varnish may now be put on for the last. Flowing
varnish is so-called because it is lighter in body
than most varnishes, and is intended as the last of
all, to produce that elegant glossy surface which
characterizes all fine work.
Many persons use shellac varnish, which is
simply gum lac (the proper name is " lac "),
which is a gum found in the Indies ; the trade
give it the names of shell-lac and seed-lac, and
one other which I have forgotten : shell-lac is the
kind used for varnish. The gum is simply dis-
solved in alcohol of high proof; the solution
being aided by exposure to a warm place and
agitation from time to time. As this varnish
dries immediately, or within an hour, owing to
FINISHING THE OUTSIDE. 113
tlie rapid evaporation of the alcohol ; it is very
convenient for amateurs who are of an energetic
turn of mind, and wish to see their productions
turned and finished in a breath, as one may say.
It takes a fair polish, but is by no means so dura-
ble or beautiful as copal or hard varnishes. On
some woods, as, for instance, cherry, pine, or
cedar, it is very appropriate, and looks well.
It is quite easy to write these instructions and
observations down, but there is a dexterity, ac-
quired only by practice, which cannot be told to
any one, and the operator must, if possible, inform
himself by visiting the nearest cabinet or piano
factory, and see with his eyes for himself.
I should have said previously that ivory black
introduced into shell-lac varnish, gives a very
good black lacquer, closely imitating japan, while
other colors, such as blue, carmine, green, or yel-
low, have the effect of enamel when handsomely
rubbed down and polished with several coats. I
have seen some most beautiful knobs for drawers,
fancy handles, etc., made in this way, that looked
like porcelain.
Oiled wood looks well in furniture, and there
may be some who desire to use it on fancy work.
It is simply linseed oil applied in successive coats ;
but it requires time to dry, and alwaj^s has a dis-
agreeable odor about it.
10*
114 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE.
CHAPTER XVIII.
INLAYING CONTINUED.
A VERY convenient tool for inlaying
veneers edgewise, so as to produce alter-
nate dark and wliite lines is made by tak-
ing a piece of steel, one fourth of an inch
by one sixteenth thick, and making a
chisel, like Fig. 73. The bottom is
rounded to prevent it from digging in.
To use this tool, or to inlay fine white
and black lines, or white lines alone, all
over the surface of any piece of wood in
any pattern desired, it is only needful to
mark out the pattern first, incise it all
around with a sharp keen edge, such as
a knife blade broken off to form a square
end, and then follow the lines with this
tool, when the wood will come away, leav-
ing a clean channel, in which the veneer
may be inserted with expedition and
neatness. In crossing the corners, it is
necessary to use caution, so that they be
not broken away, for no inlaying looks
well if chipped, or ragged at the edges.
INLAYING CONTINUED. 115
This is especially convenient for drawing lines
across mahogany boxes that have been put toge-
ther before inlaying was thought of for them.
The veneers should all be glued together, side
and side first, that is, if two colors are used, then
they will fit on the ends properly, and may be
handled with more expedition.
GLUING IN VENEEES.
In a previous part of this little work I have ad-
vised the use of waterproof cements for fine in-
laying, so that dampness will not aSect them, but
as this is not always convenient, it is well to make
the glue so that it can be used and the work
finished oJBf in a short time. This is easily done
by making the glue as thick as it will run, or so
that it is like a jelly. If applied in this condition,
it will set hard in thirty minutes, and the work
may be cut down without fear or danger of its
moving. I have done this frequently, in order to
see what kind of work I was making. Always
put a clamp on your work wherever you can, for
although the glue will adhere of itself to the
wood, it adheres much more strongly if pressed
down by a clamp. Also, never put a veneer on a
piece of work that is uneven, for although it may
set square under the pressure of the clamp, when
you come to scrape it, it will give way and yield
116 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE.
to the inequalities, and when varnished and
polished, will be full of depressions.
Don't be afraid to rub down with sand paper,
under the impression that you are spoiling the
work, but let the varnish get thoroughly dried,
and be hard before you attempt it. Be sure, also,
to remove every particle of varnish if you touch
it at all, otherwise that which remains will take a
coat while the bare wood will not take so much,
and you will have a surface full of scars and
ridges. It is not necessary to touch the wood in
Tabbing down, but go down to the wood, so that
a waxy appearance is presented, and you will have
a handsome finish that will add greatly to the
beauty of the work. White holly is easily soiled
when used in connection with ebony, by the dust
from it, and it will be necessary to rub it, or scrape
it delicately, before varnishing, without touching
the ebony.
IVOEY.
This substance is certainly a most attractive
one to the turner. Pure in color, hard, solid and
strong beyond belief in texture or grain, it has
the fewest disadvantages of any substance we
use. It is easily dyed to any shade, and will hold
it a long while. Either for jewelry, or rather for
personal adornment, or articles of utility, it is
INLAYING CONTINUED. 117
well adapted, and but for the cost of it would
be in general use. It is getting dearer and
scarcer each year. The best comes from Ceylon,
and that in least repute from African elephants ;
the former is said to be much stronger and more
solid.
Of its general manipulation there is not much
to be said, except that the workman will find it
trying to the edge of his tools. In all respects it
can be cut and turned like hard woods.
Fig. 74.
It is easily softened by immersion for a time in
weak acid, so that its friability, toughness, or
tendency to resist the carving tool, is destroyed,
and this without injuring the goods, unless the
acid is too strong.
As it is so expensive in general, it is well for
the amateur to know that he can purchase it in all
shapes, either in squares like Fig. 74, or in flat,
cord-like slips, from dealers in it. I will mention
one person, F. Grote, 78 Fulton street, New York,
who generally has a good assortment of this kind.
It is extremely convenient to find pieces of the
exact size and shape one needs, and it is also
118 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE.
economical, botli in time and material, for all
ivory must be sawed, and that is slow work where
there are no facilities. After the article, what-
ever it may be, is turned, it may be either dyed,
or polished in its natural color.
POLISHING.
This is performed in the easiest way. A wet
rag will polish ivory, but in order to put on a
brilliant gloss, take starch, or Spanish white, satu-
rate a wet rag with it, and hold it on the work ;
when dried off and rubbed with a woolen cloth or
a piece of chamois leather, it will have a brilliant
and durable gloss.
DYEING IVOEY.
I tried a great many plans and recipes for dye-
ing ivory before I hit upon any that were in all
respects satisfactory. Most of them were nasty,
involved the purchase of drugs and dyes that
were sure to be adulterated, and the results were
vexatious, but one day, in dyeing some silk with
family dye color, prepared by Howe and Stevens,
of Boston, Massachusetts, the idea occurred to me
to try it on ivory. It succeeded to admiration,
and I had found what I had so long sought,
namely, a clean, cheap, simple and sure method
of coloring ivory to any shade needed, in a short
INLAYING CONTINUED. 119
time. The color can always be had, ready for
use, in any town, as much so as a bottle of ink,
while the various shades and gradations of tint
are ready made to hand ; there is no need of stale
urine, or any other mess, — simple immersion in
the hot liquid from ten to twenty- four hours will
give a permanent and brilliant hue to any article.
I have never seen such brilliant colors as these
dyes give. The solferino and the black are par-
ticularly handsome, and are insoluble in water ;
that is, the goods may be washed without injury.
The solferino will not bear hard rubbing in water,
but the black and other colors will, without in-
jury. The depth to which the color penetrates de-
pends upon the length of time the goods are im-
mersed, but twenty-four hours, and even six hours
in some cases, will answer all purposes. For chess-
men, the solferino is a splendid color, while all
the other tints can be had for other kinds of fancy
work.
Ivory is particularly suitable for mosaic inlay-
ing, as it never chips, and can be cut into the small-
est and thinnest pieces without danger of fracture.
It will hold on wood with glue, though there are
other cements, stronger, for the purpose.
It can also be dyed before inlaying, and after-
wards rubbed down to a uniform surface, but the
work must be done well, as the dyes do not always
120 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE.
penetrate equally, and if the work is delicate and '
the design small, it is apt to change the colors to
rub them down. Napkin rings, breast pins,
masonic mallets and emblems generally, miniature
gothic chairs with carved backs for ornamental
purposes, chess and checker men, small boxes for
lip and eye salves, needle cases, thimble cases,
ring and jewel boxes, penholders, silk-winders
card cases, all afford a fine opportunity for the
skill and taste of the amateur.
ORNAMENTAL DESIGNS FOR INLAYING. 121
CHAPTER XIX.
ORNAMENTAL DESIGNS FOR INLAYING.
Although a handsomely veined piece of wood
is as beautiful a thing as any one would wish to
see, there are occasionally pieces of work that
look well inlaid, and for this it is desirable that
we should have as pretty patterns and judiciously
chosen woods and contrasts as we can get.
I give here what I think is a pretty design for
the cover of a round box. It is easily made, and
I venture to suggest that the following colors will
will be found agreeable ; No. 1, tulip with out-
side edge of white holly, tulip to be cut across the
grain. No. 2, ebony cut out of a solid veneer,
that is not pieced. It will save a great deal of
time and labor to glue this veneer on to mahoga-
ny a quarter of an inch thick, and then saw the
pattern out with a fine turn-saw. To get the
veneer off whole, soak it in warm water for a
few minutes. No. 3, boxwood. No. 4, ebony.
No. 5, tulip, or, if you can get it, turtle wood.
It is sometimes to be had of Henry A. Kerr,
Center street, New York, dealer in woods. The
11
122 MANUAL OP THE HAND LATHE,
central flower can be omitted or executed. It is
a good deal of work, but v/ill make a beautiful
piece when well done. Turtle wood is very re-
markable, being yellow inclining to salmon,
mottled with brownish black streaks, sometimes
black with superb crimson markings, like a sum-
mer sunset after a thunder storm.
Fig. 76 is another similar pattern. Of course the
workman will make such disposition of the colors
as he pleases. When these are varnished and
French polished, they certainly look splendidly,
and are specimens of work that any one may be
proud of; of course supposing them to be well
litted as to joints, and without the glairy, sticky
appearance that characterizes varnish half rubbed
down, and that worked before it has hardened.
Hardening and drying are two different things,
Yarnish dries before it hardens, and requires time,
the more the better, to season, so it can be polished.
This is a very easy pattern to fit, and any one of
experience can make it complete in four or six
hours.
Fig, 77 is still another pattern, but what is
shown dark, as at A, in the outer circles should
be light to represent tulip wood. Tulip contrasts
splendidly with ebony. The center or body of
the cover should be rosewood. This must be put
on first, all over the whole surface, and a white
OENAMENTAL DESIGNS FOR INLAYING. 123
holly ring put on tlie outside edge. The exterior
and interior circles, which form the pattern, are
then cut out hy a tool like a carpenter's bit used
in the lathe, as in this diagram. The letter a is
round, and will, of course, make a slight center
hole in the box cover, but as it is covered up that
IS a matter of no moment. The inner circles B
should also be tulip, or some wood that contrasts
with ebony ; mahogany is very handsome. This
pattern is not pretty, but it is striking and unique,
which is sometimes the same thing. Of course,
the distances of the circles must be determined
beforehand with a pair of compasses.
In scroll sawing much can be done that is
pleasing to the eye in small works, but for large
designs and intricate ones, the amateur will find
an upright or jig saw necessary, unless he be more
than usually patient.
For the joints of boxes before veneering I al-
ways prefer screws rather than dovetailing, which
takes a long time, and is no better when done ;
screws are sure, never start, and save time, which
is a great consideration with amateurs, whose
tasks are often, indeed, in nearly all cases, carried
on after some other labor is over, in the interim
between arduous toil.
White woods, such as holly, need white glue,
else the joints will show. Beware of dust in your
124 MANUAL OP THE HAND LATHE.
varnish brush, and take care that yo"u soak it for
half a day before using it, else the hairs will come
out on your work and ruin it. Flat, camel's hair
brushes are to be used, and can be had in every
paint store. Use only the whitest copal varnish
for your white holly, else you will find it yellow
holly after the varnish has been put on. Most
varnishes need thinning slightly with turpentine
before use, especially if they have been kept some
time.
Keep your lathe centers so that they run true
on the points at all times, and have a mark on
them so that they always enter from the same
side of the lathe mandrel.
When you put clamps on to hold your veneers,
as you always should, be careful, if your wood is
soft, that you do not set the clamps so tight as to
sink the veneer into the lower wood, for the
result will be an uneven surface, that nothing can
remedy.
Be careful to have clean glue and clean surfaces
if you wish to make sound work. Dust or grit
ruins glue so that it will not hold.
GENERAL SUMMARY. 125
CHAPTER XX.
GENERAL SUMMARY.
In polishing metals, whether brass, iron, steel,
or of whatever nature, it is essential that the tool
marks and scratches of files, or other agents,
should be entirely removed before the final gloss
is given, otherwise the work will have a cheap
look that detracts very much from its appearance.
If emery of the finest character (flour) is used,
with oil, the result will be very beautiful, but
tins makes a mess about the lathe it is desirable
to avoid. Polish with oil is softer in appearance
than dry polishing, and is much more durable,
being not so liable to rust and tarnish. Dry
polishing is performed with sand paper of various
grades, running from | to 0. This gives a very
bright, dazzling finish, that is easily rusted.
Brass must be treated with rotten stone and oil to
be nicely polished, and after this the burnisher
should be used. Lacquers are employed for the
purpose of preserving the polish unimpaired, and
are made as follows :
126 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE
LACQUERS.
2 gals. AlcoHol, proof, specific gravity not less
than 95 per. cent.
1 lb. Seed-lac.
1 oz. Gum Oopal.
1 oz. English. Saffron.
1 oz. Annotto.
Another.
40 ozs. Proof Alcohol.
8 grs. Spanish Annotto.
2 drs. Turmeric.
J oz. Shellac.
12 grs. Red Sanders.
When dissolved add 30 drops Spirit of Tur-
pentine.
Directions for Making. — Mix the ingredients,
and let the vessel containing them stand in the
sun, or in a place slightly warmed, for three or
four days, shaking it frequently till the gum is
dissolved, after which let it settle from 24 to 48
hours, when the clear liquor may be poured off
for use. Pulverized glass is sometimes used in
making lacquers, to carry down the impurities.
The best burnisher is a piece of bloodstone
ground to shape and set in a handle ; they can be
bought for about a dollar and a half at any watch-
GENEKAL SUMMARY. 127
makers' tool store, Eouge powder is also an ex-
cellent thing for polishing brass and German
silver. German silver, in wire, also in sheet, can
be had at the same place.
For silver plating fluid the workman will find
that manufactured by Howe & Stevens, Boston,
Massachusetts, to be the best of its class, as it
leaves a thin coating of pure silver on the metal,
which can be renewed from time to time, as it
wears, by a fresh application.
Any articles that require to be gilt can be best
done by electro platers, who will deposit as much
gold on the surface as one desires, even to the
thirty-second part of an inch. It is better, how-
ever, to buy a small battery, which can be had for
four or five dollars, and do this for yourself. Yery
many other things can be electro-plated, and 'fac-
similes of medals produced at a small cost, which
will be both instructive and ornamental.
SOLDERING.
There are many ways of soldering, but the
amateur will find the spirit lamp and the solder-
ing iron the most convenient and expeditious.
In soldering tinned surfaces, no particular care
is needed, as the solder will adhere easily, but in
brass, or other metals, it does not do so without
the aid of a rosin flux or acid solution. These
128 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATKE.
simply act to make the surfaces chemically clean,
so that the solder will hold. In fact, cleanliness
is absolutely indispensable to success, for the
solder will crawl off of any thing that is dirty or
greasy, even though it may not appear to be so.
Lead and tin are used for solder, and can be
bought of any tinner yery cheaply. The end of
the soldering iron (which is not iron, but copper,
by the way) should be tinned, otherwise the sol-
der will not hold on it, neither will it follow when
the iron is drawn along a seam.
The iron is readily tinned' in this way. File it
to the shape you want it, and put it in the fire,
heating it pretty hot, but nothing like redness.
You are then to wipe it clean quickly on a rag
wet with soldering fluid, which can be had in
drug stores, and is made of muriatic acid and
sheet zinc dissolved in the same ; the zinc must
be clean, and in small strips, and shaken gradually
until dissolved. The solution must then be well
diluted with water. It is used by wetting the
rag aforesaid with it and rubbing the iron in it ;
if block tin in strips be now rubbed on the end
of the iron, it will adhere, and the iron will be
ready for use. The iron must not be heated so as
to melt off the tin and expose the copper under-
neath ; for the iron is then useless until tinned
again. .
GENERAL SUMMARY. 129
The soldering fluid is always to be used when
brass, or any surfaces not coated with, tin, are to
be united,
By the spirit lamp you can join metallic sur-
faces very easily and quickly as follows : take
your plate, or whatever it is you wish to join to-
gether, and scour it bright with fine sand-paper
or pumice stone and water, on the faces to be
united. Apply the soldering fluid, hold it over
the spirit lamp blaze, and as soon as it is well
heated, rub it over with a stick of tin ; when it is
well tinned, lay it on a hot flat iron or the stove
for a minute, until you have tinned the other
piece, then clap both together, and they will set
instantly.
The blowpipe is very convenient for soldering
small pieces together that cannot be touched with
the iron, but as it requires some skill to use it,
the amateur is not likely to be very successful
with it. The articles to be soldered in this way,
should be placed on a piece of charcoal, so that
the heat will be equally distributed and kept up
during the process.
VARNISHING AND POLISHING.
On no account is a second coat of varnish to be
applied before the first one is dry. If this is done
the result will be a sticky, ridgy, dirty looking
130 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE,
job. Before the work is varnislied even, it must
be thorougblj sandpapered to remove inequalities,
and the last sandpapering should be with the
finest grade. Then apply the varnish, taking
care not to put too much on for the first coat.
When that is dry and hard, sandpaper with fine
paper again and varnish again. Three to four
coats are enough for ordinary work. When the
last coat is dry and hard, get some floated pumice
stone flour, that is, pumice stone flour that has
been washed, mix it with water to about the
thickness of cream ; apply it to a woolen rag, and
rub it gently over the work; not too hard, for
that would cut the varnish off down to the wood.
After a while you will see that the surface of the
varnish begins to have a hard, smooth body, like
carriage work. When this occurs, you can wash
the pumice stone all off, and take a little Tripoli
or rotten stone and oil, and rub gently all over
the job ; you will then have a surpassingly beau-
tiful and brilliant surface, that will show the
grain and vein of the wood to perfection. If you
desire the gloss that varnish gives, you must
apply a thin coat of wearing varnish after this,
In varnishing, you must buy " rubbing varnish "
if you intend to polish and oil varnish, not spirit,
which is apt to crack and rub up under the treat-
ment.
GENERAL SUMMARY. 181
BRUSHES,
In varnishing, you, of course, desire to Lave t»
true and even surface, without a ridge to show
where the brush left it. Camel's hair flat brushes
are used for this purpose, but they will not an-
swer in spirit varnishes, as the hairs drop out or
are loosened from the action of the spirit on the
shellac or glue, which holds them in. Bristle
brushes are the best for general use. They must
be soaked for an hour or more in cold water, to
fasten the bristles before using.
PEARL.
This substance is easily sawed into shape, and
is easily turned with a common steel tool. It is
polished readil}'- with pumice stone and water and
"putty powder," this last to be had of chemists
or lapidaries. It is better to preserve the colored
surface as nature left it, for the beautiful rays
and tints presented by it are owing to a peculiar
disposition of thin scales on the surface, which re-
tain the light; if these be destroyed, the beauty
of the material is lost. It is to be had of marine
store keepers generally, or the amateur can get it
more readily of the nearest button manufacturer.
MISCELLANEOUS TOOLS,
If you buy any tools, always buy the best that
money can get. P. S. Stubs' files, wire, limmers,
132 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE.
and screw plates, are standard tools, and the ama-
teur cannot go astray in choosing them. A vise
is indispensable, and it should be large enough to
hold the work without springing.
CURVING MAPLE VENEEES.
If you wish to curve a veneer so that it will fit
a half or a whole circle, it is easily done by dip-
ping it in hot water, when it will instantly curl
up into any shape you want. I do this with bird's
eye maple. This wood is easily stained any hue,
and is rather handsomer in chocolate brown than
in its natural color. It is then the nearest to
French oak of any wood that we have, and that is
unquestionably superb. Such markings and mot-
tlings as it has, surpass anything ever seen; it is
a deep, rich, chocolate brown color, full of snarls,
curves, and knots, not over five eights of an inch
in their largest diameters, and so beautiful that it
seems as if some hand must have arranged them.
The French oak is susceptible of a splendid
polish, but I am unable to say how it works, for
I never worked any, nor do I know where to get
it. Curled maple will also take a handsome dye.
Get Howe & Stevens's Dye Colors in powder — ■
they can be had in any apothecary's store, of
any shade — put it in an earthen dish and boil
it, then dip or sponge the veneer with it. The
GENERAL SUMMARY. 133
color will strike through and through, and you
may sand-paper it as much as you please without
removing it. It is a very beautiful job to take a
plain ogee moulding and curl a bird's eye maple
veneer on the round part, and an ebony veneer
on the fiUet or hollow, and then varnish and
polish it. It makes one of the most beautiful
picture frames that ever was seen ; having all the
effect of mouldings made from the solid wood.
CUTTING MISCELLANEOUS MATERIALS.
By these I mean horn jet, malachite, alabaster,
cannel coal, glass, and similar substances. For
all of these, except malachite, steel will answer,
but that steel will not touch. It is not a nice
material to work, being apt to check and crack in
the most unlooked-for manner. To those who
have never seen it, I will say that it is a stone, or
species of marble, obtained in Eussia, and is green
in color, marked with wdiite and greenish gray
stripes. The green is specially brilliant, and the
effect is very fine. Although it is so hard that steel
will not cut it, it is easily scratched in use, and is
a soft stone, and can be readily cut on a common
vulcanite emery wheel, and polished on a razor
strop covered with rouge powder. It is fre-
quently used for jewelry. Glass is easily filed in
a lathe with a common file, but I do not know
12
134 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE.
what any one should wish, to work glass for, as it
is exceedingly dangerous from the splinters which
fly from it, is quite friable and easily broken, and
is, moreover, so common that no value attaches to
it. Very pretty vases can be made out of ala-
baster by turning them in the lathe.
I I^ D E X .
PAGE
Acid in soldering 127
African black-thorn 97
Alabaster, Cutting 133
Apple-Wood 85
Arbors 74
Artistic Wood-Turning 96
Bamboo Pattern 63
Bank-Bills, Work on 73
Bastard Ebony 83
Beach Chuck.! 94
Bird's-eye Maple 84
Bit for Turning 88
Black Thorn 97
Boiler for Toy Engine 53
Boring 55
Boxes, Joints of 123
Box for Pins 62
Boxwood 81
Brushes for Varnishes 131
Burnisher 126
Buttons, Solitaire Sleeve 59
Cam Wood 81
Centers 65
Chasers 33,35
Chasing 33
Chucking 42, 49
Chucks, Geometrical 73
Chucks, Wooden 43
Clamps for Polishing 48
Cocoa Wood 80
Colored Woods 107
Coloring Maple 132
Curled Maple 84
Curving Veneers 132
Cushman's Scroll Chuck 42
Cutting Alabaster 133
Cutting Horn 133
Cutting Jet 133
Cutting Malachite 133
PAGE
Cutting Miscellaneous Materials... 133
Cnttiiig, Ornamental 59
Cutting Screws 33
Designs for Inlaying 121
Designs in Mosaic 106
Diamond Point 21
Doctor 37
Drills, Twist 75
Dyeing Ivory 118
Ebony 82
Elliptic Chuck 74
Fancy Turning 71
Finishing Outside 110
Foot Lathe 13
Foreign Woods 77
General Summary 125
Geometrical Chuck 73
Gilding 127
Glass Filing 133
Globe, and Spur within 68
Glueing in Veneers 115
Good Tools necessary 20
Granadilla 80
Hand Lathes 19
Heel Tools 27
Height of Lathe 22
Holding the Tool 23
Hole Boring 55
Holly, White 82
Holtzapfel Lathe 38
Holtzapfel, Work by 16
Horn, Cutting 133
Hubs 40
Indigenous Woods.. 77
Inlaying 97, IH
Inlaying, Designs for 121
135
136
INDEX.
Inlaying Stamps 102
Iron for Soldering 128
Ivory 116
Jet Cutting 133
Joints of Boxes 123
Lacquers , 126
Lac Varnish 112
Lathe, Foot 13
Lathe, Height of. 22
Lathe, Holtzapfel 38
Lathe, Speedof 23
Lathe, Uses of. 16
Lathes, Hand 19
Lanrel Root 82
Leopard Wood 78
Malachite, Cutting 133
Mandrels 38, 74
Maple, Bird's-eye 84
Maple, Coloring 132
Maple, Curled 84
Metal Spinning 51
Metals, Polishing 125
Miscellaneous Tools 131
Mosaic Designs 106
Natural Colored Woods 107
Novel Ornameut 68
Oiled Wood 113
Olive Wood 83
Ornamental Cutting 59
Ornamental Desig'is for Inlaying.. 121
Ornamental Woods 77
Ornamental Work 14
Outside Finishing 110
Parallel Holes, to hore 55
Patterns 99
Pearl 1.31
Pear Wood 85
Polishing 46, 129
Polishing Metals 125
Polishing Ivory 118
Polygon and Spurs 69
Rack for Tools 75
Rest, Slide 57
Best, The 24
Rosewood 84
Rosin Flux 127
Rouge Powder 127
Roughing off 24
Sandal Wood 83
Sawing, Scroll 123
PARE
Scrapers 30
Screw Cutting: 33
Screws, Tool fur Small 72
Scroll Chuck 73
Scroll Chuck, Cushman's 42
Scroll Sawing 123
Shellac Varnish ^ 112
Silver-plating Fluid 127
Sleeve Buttons, Solitaire .59
Slide Rest 54, 57
Snake Wood 78
Soldering 127
Soldering Iron 128
Solitaire Sleeve Buttons 59
Speed of Lathe '23
Spinning Metals. 51
Stamp Inlaying 102
Steel Mandrels 75
Straight Tools 27
Tamarind 80
Tempering Tools 92
Tinning Soldering Iron 128
Tool for Boring Holes 55
Tool for Inlaying 114
Tool for SmailScrews 72
Tool Tempering 92
Tools 22
Tools, Holding 23
Tools, Miscellaneous 131
Tools for Wood Turning 90
Traversing Mandrel 38
Treatment of Woods 85
Tulip Wood 79
Tunbridge Ware Work 101
Tuning, Fancy 71
Turning, Wood 87
Turning, Artistic Wood 96
Turtle Wood 122
Twist Drills 75
Uses of the Lathe 16
Varieties of Woods 77
Varnishing HI, 129
Veneers 104
Veneers, Curving 132
Veneers, Gluing in 115
White Glue 123
White Holly 82
Wooden Chucks 43
Wooden Mandrels 74
Woods for Inlaying 107
Woods, Ornamental 77
Wood Turning 88
Wood Turning, Artistic 96
Work, Ornamental 14
CATALOGUE
CfP
PEACTICAL Km SCIEIiTIFIC BOOKS,
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Ductility of the Metals ; Soldering ; and the most Improved
Processes and Tools employed by Metal-Workers. With the
Application of the Art of Electro-Metallurgy to Manufactu-
ring Processes ; collected from Original Sources, and from the
AVorks of Holtzapflfel, Bergeron, Leupold, Plumier, Napier, and
others. By Oliver Byrne. A New, Revised, and improved
Edition, with Additions by John Scoffern, M. B , William Clay,
Wm. Fairbairn, F. R. S., and James Napier. With Five Hun-
dred and Ninety-two Engravings ; Illustrating every Branch
of the Subject. In one volume, Bvo. 652 pages . $7 00
■pYRNE.— THE PRACTICAL MODEL CALCULATOR:
For the Engineer, Mechanic, Manufacturer of Engine Work,
Naval Architect, Miner, and Millwright. By Oliver Byrne.
1 volume, 8vo., nearly 600 pages . . . . $4 50
n.\BINET MAKER'S ALBUM OF FURNITURE:
Comprising a Collection of Designs for the Newest and Most
Elegant Styles of Furniture. Illustrated by Forty eight Largo
and Beautifully Engraved Plates. In one volume, oblong
$5 00
IIEXKY CAREY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE.
HALVEET.— LECTUEES 0¥ COAL-TAS C0L0S3, A2TD Oil EE- •
^ CENT IMPSOVEIdENTS AND PEOGEESS III DYSINCr AND
CALICO PEIKTING:
Embodying Copious Notes taken at the last London Interna-
tional Exhibition, and Illustrated with Numerous Patterns of
Aniline and other Colors. By F. Gkace Calvert, F. R. S.,
F. C. S., Professor of Chemistry at the Royal Institution, Man-
chester, Corresponding Member of the Pioyal Academies of
Turin and Rouen; of the Pharmaceutical Society of Paris;
Soci^te Industrielle de Mulhouse, etc. In one volume, 8vo.,
cloth .... . . . . . $1 50
nAMPIH.— A PRACTICAL TREATISE ON MECHANICAL EN-
^ GINEEP.ING: '
Comprising Metallurgy, Moulding, Casting, Forging, Tools,
Workshop Machinery, Mechanical Manipulation, Manufacture
of Steam-engines, etc. etc. "With an Appendix on the Ana-
lysis of Iron and Iron Oi-es. By Francis Campin, C. E. To
"which are added. Observations on the Construction of Steam
Boilers, and Remarks upon Furnaces used for Smoke Preven-
tion ; -with a Chapter on Explosions. By R. Armstrong, C. E.,
and John Bourne. Rules for Calculating the Change Wheels
for Screws on a Turning Lathe, and for a Wheel-cutting
Machine. By J. La Nicca. Management of Steel, including
Forging, Hardening, Tempering, Annealing, Shrinking, and
Expansion. And the Case-hardening of Iron. By G. Ede.
8vo. Illustrated with 29 plates and 100 wood engravings.
^6 00
nAI€?IN.-~TIIS PRACTICE OF HAND-TURNING IN WOOD,
^ lYORY, SHELL, ETC. :
With Instructions for Turning such works in Metal as may be
required in the Practice of Turning AVood, Ivory, etc. Also,
an Appendix on Ornamental Turning. By Francis Campin ;
with Numerous Illustrations, 12mo., cloth . . $3 00
ni\PEON DE DOLE— DUSSATJCE.— BLUES AND CARMINES OF
^ INDIGO.
A Practical Treatise on the Fabrication of every Commercial
Product derived from Indigo. By Felicien Capron de Dole.
Translated, with important additions, by Professor H. Dus-
sauce. 12mo. . . . . . . . $2 <J0
HENRY CAREY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE.
nAREY.— THE WORKS OF HENRY C. CAREY :
CONTRACTION OR EXPANSION? REPUDIATION OR RE-
SUMPTION? Letters to Hon. Hugh McCulloch. 8vo. 38
FINANCIAL CRISES, their Causes and Effects. 8vo. paper
25
HARMONY OF INTERESTS; Agricultural, Manufacturing,
and Commercial. 8vo., paper . . . . . $1 00
Do. do. cloth . . . $1 50
LETTERS TO THE PRESIDENT OF THE UNITED STATES.
Paper $1 00
MANUAL OF SOCIAL SCIENCE. Condensed from Carey's
"Principles of Social Science." By Kate McKean. 1 vol.
12mo ^2 25
MISCELLANEOUS WORKS: comprising "Harmony of Inter-
ests," "Money," "Letters to the President," "French and
American Tariffs," "Financial Crises," "The Way to Outdo
England Trithout Fighting Her," "Resources of the Union,"
"The Public Debt," "Contraction or Expansion," "Review
of the Decade 1857 — 'G7," "Reconstruction," etc. etc. 1 vol.
8vo., cloth $4 50
MONEY: A LECTURE before the N. Y. Geographical and Sta-
tistical Society. 8vo., paper ..... 25
PAST, PRESENT, AND FUTURE. 8vo. . . . $2 50
PRINCIPLES OF SOCIAL SCIENCE. 3 volumes 8vo., cloth
$10 00
REVIEW OF THE DECADE 1857— '67. 8vo., paper 38
RECONSTRUCTION: INDUSTRIAL, FINANCIAL, AND PO-
LITICAL. Letters to the Hon. Henry Wilson, U. S. S. 8vo.
paper ....'.. . . 38
THE PUBLIC DEBT, LOCAL AND NATIONAL. How to
provide for its discharge while lessening the burden of Taxa-
tion. Letter to David A. Wells, Esq., U. S. Revenue Commis-
sion. 8vo., paper ....... 25
THE RESOURCES OF THE UNION. A Lecture read, Dec.
1865, before the American Geographical and Statistical So-
ciety, N. Y., and before the American Association for the Ad-
vancement of Social Science, Boston . . . 25
THE SLAVE TRADE, DOMESTIC AND FOREIGN; Why it
Exists, and How it may be Extinguished. 12mo., cloth $150
8 HENRY CAREY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE.
THE WAY TO OUTDO ENGLAND WITHOUT FIGHTING
HER. Letters to the Hon. Schuyler Colfax. 8vo., paper 75
riAMUS.— A TEEATISS ON THE TEETH OF WHEELS:
Demonstrating the best forms which can be given to them for the
purposes of Machinery, such as Mill-work .and Clo'-.k-work. Trans-
Lited from the French of M. Camus. By Jchn I. Hawkins.
Illustrated by 40 plates. 8vo. $3 00
niQUGH.— THE CONTEACTOE'S MANUAL AND BUILDER'S
^ PRICE-BOOK :
Designed to elucidate the method of ascertaining, correctly,
the value and Quantity of every description of Work and Ma-
terials used in the Art of Building, from their Prime Cost in
any part of the United States, collected from extensive expe-
rience and observation in Building and Designing; to which
are added a large variety of Tables, Memoranda, etc., indis-
pensable to all engaged or concerned in erecting buildings of
any kind. By A. B. Clough, Architect, 24mo., cloth 75
nOLBURN.— THE GAS-WORKS OF LONDON:
Comprising a sketch of the Gas-works of the city, Process of
Manufacture, Quantity Produced, Cost, Profit, etc. By Zerah
CoLBURN. 8vo., cloth 75
nOLBURN.— THE LOCOMOTIVE ENGINE:
Including a Description of its Structure, Rules for Estimat-
ing its Capabilities, and Practical Observations on its Construc-
tion and Management. By Zerah Colburn. Illustrated. A
new edition. 12mo. $1 25
nOLBURN AND MAW.— THE WATER-V/ORKS OF LONDON :
Together with a Series of Articles on various otiier Water-
works. By Zerah Colbwrn and W. Maw. Reprinted from
"Engineering." In one volume, 8vo. . . $1 00
■HAGUERREOTYPIST AND PHOTOGRAPHER'S COMPANION:
^ 12mo., cloth $1 25
TJUPLAIS,— A COMPLETE TREATISE ON" THE DISTILLATION
^ AND PREPARATION OF ALCOHOLIC AND OTHER LIQ-
UORS:
From the French of M. Duplais. Translated and Edited by M.
McKennie, M. D, Illustrated, 8vo. {I/t. jiress-)
HENRY CAREY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE.
■HESSOYE— STEEL, ITS MANUFACTURE, PSOPEETISS, AKD
■*-' USE.
By J. B'. J. Dessote, Manufacturer of Steel; •with an Intro-
duction and Notes by Ed. Graten, Engineer of Mines.
Translated from the French. In one volume, 12mo. (In press.)
■niKCKS.— PEKPETUAL MOTION :
Or Search for Self-Motive Power during the 17th, 18th, and
19th centuries. Illustrated from various authentic sources in
Papers, Essays, Letters, Paragraphs, and numerous Patent
Specifications, with an Introductory Essay by Henry Dircks,
C. E. Illustrated by numerous engravings of machines.
12mo., cloth ^3 50
■niXON.— THE PSACTICAL MILLWRIGHT'S AND ENGINEER'S
■^ GUIDE :
Or Tables for Finding the Diameter and Power of Cogwheels ;
Diameter, Weight, and Power of Shafts ; Diameter and Strength
of Bolts, etc. etc. By Thobias Dixon. 12mo., cloth. $1 50
■nUNC AN.— PRACTICAL SURVEYOR'S GUIDE:
Containing the necessary information to make any person, of
common capacity, a finished land surveyor without the aid of
a teacher. By Andrew Duncan. Illustrated. 12mo., cloth.
$1 25
•nUSSAUCE.— A NEW AND COMPLETE TREATISE ON THE
■^ ARTS OF TANNING, CURRYING, AND LEATHER DRESS-
ING:
Comprising all the Discoveries and Improvements made in
France, Great Britain, and the United States. Edited from
Notes and Documents of Messrs. Sallerou, Grouvelle, Duval,
Dessables, Labarraque, Payen, Ren6, De Fontenelle, Mala-
peyre, etc. etc. By Prof. H. Dussauce, Chemist. Illustrated
by 212 wood engravings. 8vo $10 00
TJUSSAUCE.— A GENERAL TREATISE ON THE MANUFACTURE
•'-' OF EVERY DESCRIPTION OF SOAP :
Comprising the Chemistry of the Art, with Remarks on Alka-
lies, Saponifiable Fatty Bodies, the apparatus necessary in a
Soap Factory, Practical Instructions on the manufacture of
the various kinds of Soap, the assay of Soaps, etc. etc. Edited
from notes of Larme, Fontenelle, Malapeyre, Dufour, and
others, with large and important additions by Professor H.
Dussauce, Chemist. Illustrated. In one volume, Svo.
$10 Oli
10 HE^^RY CARET BAIRD'S CATALOGUE.
"nUSSAUCE.— A PRACTICAL GUIDE FOE THE PERFUMER :
Being a New Treatise on Perfumery the most favorable to the
Beauty without being injurious to the Health, comprising a
Description of the substances used in Perfumery, the Form-
ula of more than one thousand Preparations, such as Cosme-
tics, Perfumed Oils, Tooth Powders, Waters, Extracts, Tinc-
tures, Infusions, Vinaigres, Essential Oils, Pastels, Creams,
Soaps, and many new Hygienic Products not hitherto described.
Edited from Notes and Documents of Messrs. Debay, Lunel,
etc. Withadditions by Professor H. DussArcE, Chemist. 12mo.
press, shortly to be issued.) $3 00
•nUSSAUCE.— PRACTICAL TREATISE ON THE FABRICATION
•^ OF MATCHES, GUN COTTON, AND FULMINATING POW-
DERS.
By Professor H. Dussauce. 12mo. . . . $3 00
•nUSSAUCE.— A GENERAL TREATISE ON THE MANUFACTURE
■^ OF VINEGAR, THEORETICAL AND PRACTICAL.
•Comprising the various methods, by the slow and the quick pro-
cesses, with Alcohol, Wine, Grain, Cider, and Molasses, as well
as the Fabrication of Wood Vinegar, etc. By Prof. H. Dossauce.
i2mo. (In press.)
D
E GRAFF. -THE GEOMETRICAL STAIR-BUILDERS' GUIDE :
Being a Plain Practical System of Hand-Railing, embracing all
its necessary Details, and Geometrically Illustrated by 22 Steel
Engravings : together with the use of the most approved princi-
ples of Practical Geometry. By Simon De Graff, Architect.
4to. $5 00
■HYER Ai^D COLOS-MAXER'S COMPANION :
Containing upwards of two hundred Receipts for making Co-
lors, on the most approved principles, for all the various styles
and fabrics now in existence ; with the Scouring Process, and
plain Directions for Preparing, Washing-oflF, and Finishing the
Goods. In one vol. 12mo $1 25
pASTON.— A PRACTICAL TREATISE ON STREET OR HORSE-
•'-' POWER RAILWAYS :
Their Location, Construction, and Management ; with General
Plans and Rules for their Organization and Operation ; toge-
ther with Examinations as to their Comparative Advantages
over the Omnibus System, and Inquiries as to their Value for
Investment ; including Copies of Municipal Ordinances relat-
ing thereto. By Alexander Easton, C. E. Illustrated by 23
plates, 8vo., cloth . . . . . , . $2 00
HENRY CAREY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE. 11
pOESYTH.— BOOK OF DSSIGNS FOR HEAD-STONES, MURAL,
*■ AND OTHER MONUMENTS :
Containing 78 Elaborate and Exquisite Designs. By Foksyth.
4to. (Inpress)
pAIRBAIRN.— THE PRINCIPLES OF MECHANISM AND MA-
^ CHINERY OF TRANSMISSION :
Comprising the Principles of Mechanism, Wheels, and Pulleys,
Strength and Proportions of Shafts, Couplings of Shafts, and
Engaging and Disengaging Gear. By William Fairbaikn,
Esq., C. E., LL. D., F. R. S., F. G. S., Corresponding Member
of the National Institute of France, and of the Royal Academy
of Turin ; Chevalier of the Legion of Honor, etc. etc. Beau-
tifully illustrated by over 150 wood-cuts. In one Tolume*12mo.
$2 50
pAIRBAIRN.— PRIME-MOVERS :
Comprising the Accumulation of Water-power; the Construc-
tion of Water-wheels and Turbines ; the Properties of Steam ;
the Varieties of Steam-engines and Boilers and Wind-mills.
By William Faireairn, C. E , LL. U., F. R. S., F. G. S. Au-
thor of "Principles of Mechanism and the Machinery of Trans-
mission." With Numerous Illustratiofas. In one volume. (In
press.)
pLAMM.— A PRACTICAL GUIDE TO THE CONSTRUCTION OF
^ ECONOMICAL HEATING APPLICATIONS FOR SOLID AND
GASEOUS FUELS :
With the Application of Concentrated Heat, and on Waste
Heat, for the Use of Engineers, Architects, Stove and Furnace
Makers, Manufacturers of Fire Brick, Zinc, Porcelain, Glass,
Earthenware, Steel, Chemical Products,' Sugar Refiners, Me-
tallurgists, and all others employing Heat. By M. Pierre
Flamm, Manufacturer. Illustrated. Translated from the
French. One volume, 12mo. (In press.)
niLBART.— A PRACTICAL TREATISE ON BANKING:
By James William Gilbart. To which is added: The Na-
tional Bank Act as now (1868) in force. 8vo. $4 50
12 HENET CAREY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE.
n OTHIC ALBUM FOE CABINET MAKERS :
Comprising a Collection of Designs for Gothic Furniture. Il-
lustrated by twenty-three large and beautifully engraved
plates. Oblong $3 00
G
G
EANT.— BEET-ROOT SUGAR AND CULTIVATION OF THE
BEET:
By E. B. Grant. 12mo §1 25
mEGORY.— MATHEMATICS FOR PRACTICAL MEN :
Adapted to the Pursuits of Surveyors, Architects, Mechanics,
and Civil Engineers. By Olinthus Gregory. 8vo., plates,
cloth ^3 00
RISWOLD.— RAILROAD ENGINEER'S POCKET COMPANION.
Comprising Rules for Calculating Deflection Distances and
Angles, Tangential Distances and Angles, and all Necessary
Tables for Engineers ; also the art of Levelling from Prelimi-
nary Survey to the Construction of Railroads, intended Ex-
pressly for the Young Engineer, together with Numerous Valu-
able Rules and Examples. By W. Griswold. 12mo., tucks.
$1 50
pUETTIER.— METALLIC ALLOYS:
Being a Practical Guide to their Chemical and Physical Pro-
perties, their Preparation, Composition, and Uses. Translated
from the French of A. Guettiee, Engineer and Director of
Founderies, author of " La Fouderie en France," etc. etc. By
A. A. Fesquet, Chemist and Engineer. In one volume, 12mo.
(In press, shortly to be published.)
TTATS AND FELTING:
A Practical Treatise on their Manufacture. By a Practical
Hatter. Illustrated by Drawings of Machinery, &c., 8vo.
•jTAY.— THE INTERIOR DECORATOR :
The Laws of Harmonious Coloring adapted to Interior Decora-
tions : with a Practical Treatise on House-Painting. By D.
R. Hay, House-Painter and Decorator. Illustrated by a Dia-
gram of the Primary, Secondary, and Tertiary Colors. 12mo.
$2 25
TTUGHES.— AMERICAN MILLER AND MILLWRIGHT'S AS-
^ SISTANT :
By Wm. Carter Hughes. A new edition. In one volume,
12mo. .... . . . . I$i &U
HENRY CAREY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE. 13
ITUNT.— THE PRACTICE OF PHOTOGRAPHY.
By Robert Hunt, Vice-President of the Photographic Society,
London, with numerous illustrations. 12mo., cloth . 75
TTTTRST.— A HAND-BOOK FOR ARCHITECTURAL SURVEYORS :
Comprising Formulas useful in Designing Builder's work, Table
of Weights, of the materials used in Building, Memoranda
connected with Builders' work. Mensuration, the Practice of
Builders' Measurement, Contracts of Labor, Valuation of Pro-
perty, Summary of the Practice in Dilapidation, etc. etc. By
J. F. Hurst, C. E. 2d edition, pocket-book form, full bound
$2 50
TERVIS.— RAILWAY PROPERTY :
A Treatise on the Construction and Management of Railways ;
designed to afford useful knowledge, in the popular style, to the
holders of this class of property ; as well as Railway Mana-
gers, Officers, and Agents. By John B. Jervis, late Chief
Engineer of the Hudson River Railroad, Croton Aqueduct, &c.
One vol. 12mo., cloth $2 00
JOHNSON.— A REPORT TO THE NAVY DEPARTMENT OF THE
" UNITED STATES ON AMERICAN COALS :
Applicable to Steam Navigation and to other purposes. By
Walter R. Johnson. With numerous illustrations. 607 pp.
8 vo., half morocco f 6 00
TOHNSOK.— THE COAL TRADE OF BRITISH AMERICA :
With Researches on the Characters and Practical Values of
American and Foreign Coals. By Walter R. Johnson, Civil
and Mining Engineer and Chemist. 8vo. . . . $2 00
JOHNSTON.— INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE ANALYSIS OF SOILS,
" LIMESTONES, AND MANURES.
By J. W. F. Johnston. 12mo 38
TT-EENE.—A HAND-BOOK OF PRACTICAL GAUGING,
For the Use of Beginners, to which is added A Chapter on Dis-
tillation, describing the process in operation at the Custom
House for ascertaining the strength of wines. By James B.
Keene, of H. M. Customs. 8vo. . . . ■ . $1 25
jT-ENTISH,- A TREATISE ON A BOX OF INSTRUMENTS,
And the Slide Rule ; with the Theory of Trigonometry and Lo-
garithms, including Practical Geometry, Surveying, Measur-
ing of Timber, Cask and Malt Gauging, Heights, and Distances.
By Thomas Kentish. In one volume. 12mo. . $1 25
14 HENRY CAREY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE.
irOBELL.—EKl^I,— MINERALOGY SIMPLIFIED :
A short method of Determining and Classifying Minerals, by
means of simple Chemical Experiments in the Wet Way.
Translated from the last German Edition of F. Von Kobell,
with an Introduction to Blowpipe Analysis and other addi-
tions. By Henei Ernt, M. D., Chief Chemist, Department of
Agriculture, author of " Coal Oil and Petroleum." In one
volume, 12mo. $2 50
T AFFIITETIIl — A PRACTICAL GUIDE TO HYDRAULICS FOR
•^ TOWN AND COUNTRY;
Or a Complete Treatise on the Building of Conduits for Water
for Cities, Towns, Farms, Country Residences, Workshops, etc.
Comprising the means necessary for obtaining at all times
abundant supplies of Drinkable Water. Translated from
the French of M. Jules Laffineur, C. E. Illustrated. (In
press.)
T AFFINEUR.— A TREATISE ON THE CONSTRUCTION OF WA-
■'-' TER- WHEELS :
Containing the various Systems in use with Practical Informa-
tion on the Dimensions necessary for Shafts, Journals, Arms,
etc., of Water-wheels, etc. etc. Translated from the French
of M. Jules Laffineuk, C. E. Illustrated by numerous
plates. (In press.)
T ANDRIN.— A TREATISE ON STEEL:
Comprising the Theory, Metallurgy, Practical Working, Pro-
perties, and Use. Translated from the French of H. C. Lan-
DRiN, Jr., C. E. By A. A. Fesquet, Chemist and Engineer.
Illustrated. 12mo. $3 OO
T ARKIN.— THE PRACTICAL BRASS AND IRON FOUNDER'S
■^ GUIDE :
A Concise Treatise on Brass Founding, Moulding, the Metala
and their Alloys, etc. ; to which are added Recent Improve-
ments in the Manufacture of Iron, Steel by the Bessemer Pro-
cess, etc. etc. By James Laekin, late Conductor of the Brass
Foundry Department in Reany, Neafie & Co.'s Penn Works,
Philadelphia. Fifth edition, revised, with Extensive addi-
tions. In one volume, 12mo. ..... . . $2 25
HENRY CAREY BATRD'S CATALOGUE. 15
T EAVITT.— FACTS ABOUT PEAT AS AN AETICLE OF FUELi
V/ith Remarks upon its Origin and Composition, the Localities
m -which it is found, the Methods of Preparation and Manu-
facture, and the various Uses to which it is applicable ; toge-
ther with many other matters of Practical and Scientific Inte-
rest. To which is added a chapter on the Utilization of Coal
Dust with Peat for the Production of an Excellent Fuel at
Moderate Cost, especially adapted for Steam Service. By H.
T. Leavitt. Third edition. 12mo. . . . $1 75
TEaOUX— A PRACTICAL TEEATI3E QUI THE MANUFAC-
^ TURK OF WJjJSIEDd AisD CA.iiDED YAEFS :
Translated from the French of Charles Leuoux, Mechanical
Engineer, and Superintendent of a Spinning Mill. By Dr, H.
Paine, and A. A. Fesqdet. Illustrated by 12 hirge plates . In
one volume 8vo. . . . . . . . . $5 00
TESLIE (MISS).— COMPLETE COOKERY:
Directions for Cookery in its Various Branches. By Miss
Leslie. 58th thousand. Thoroughly revised, with the addi-
tion of New Receipts. In 1 vol. 12mo., cloth . , $1 25
T ESLIE (MISS). LADIES' HOUSE BOOK :
a Manual of Domestic Economy. 20th revised edition. 12mo.,
cloth $1 25
TESLIE (MISS).— TWO HUNDRED RECEIPTS IN FRENCH
•^ COOKERY.
12mo 50
T lEBER.— ASSAYER'S GUIDE :
Or, Practical. Directions to Assayers, Mir.ers, and Smelters, for
the Tests and Assays, by Heat and by Wet Processes, for the
Ores of all the principal Metals, of Gold and Silver Coins and
Alloys, and of Coal, etc. By Oscar M. Lieber. 12mo., cloth
$1 25
T OVE.— THE ART OF DYEING, CLEANING, SCOURING, AND
•^ FINISHING :
On the most approved English and French methods; being
Practical Instructions in Dyeing Silks, Woollens, and Cottons,
Feathers, Chips, Straw, etc.; Scouring and Cleaning Bed and
Window Curtains, Carpets, Rugs, etc.; French and Eng-lish
Cleaning, etc. By Thomas Love. Second American EJition, to
which are added General Instructions for the Use of Aniline
Colors. 8vo 5 »0
16 HENRY CAHEY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE.
•lyrnN and brdw.^.— questions on subjects connected
iV-l- with the marine STEAM-ENGINE :
And Examinatioa Papers ; with Hints for their Solution. By
Thomas J. Main, Professor of Mathematics, Iloyal Naval Col-
lege, and TuoMAS Brown, Chief Engineer, R. N. 12mo., cloth
$1 50
-jyTAIN ANDBEOWN— THE INDICATOR AND DYNAMOMETER;
With their Practical Applications to the Steam-Engine. By
Thomas J. Main, M. A. F. R., Ass't Prof. Royal Naval College,
Portsmouth, and Thomas Bkown, Assoc. Inst. C. E., Chief En-
gineer, R. N., attached to the R. N. College. Illustrated.
From the Fourth London Edition. 8vo. . . . $1 50
TUTAIN AND BROWN— THE MARINE STEAM-ENGINE.
■"■^ By Thomas J. Main, F. R. Ass't S. Mathematical Professor at
Pioyal Naval College, and Thomas Brown, Assoc. lust. C. E.
Chief Engineer, R. N. Attached to the Royal Naval College.
/#athors of " Questions connected with the Marine Steam-En-
gine," and the "Indicator and Dynamometer." With nume-
rous Illustrations. In one volume, 8vo. . . . $5 00
MORTIMER.— THE PYROTECHNIST'S COMPANION:
Or, a Familictr System of Recreative Fireworks. By G. W.
MoRTiMEK. Illustrated ]2mo. . . . • . $1 25
Contents. — Introduction. Of Gunpowder, Materials, Appara-
tus, Division of Fireworks, Single Fireworks, Rockets, Tables of
Various Compositions, Compound Fireworks.
MARTIN — SCEEW-CUTTING TABLES, FOR THE USE OF ME-
CHANICAL ENGINEERS :
Showing the Proper Arrangement of Wheels for Cutting the
Threads of Screws of any required Pitch ; with a Table for
Making the Universal Gas-Pipe Thread and Taps. By W. A.
Martin, Engineer. 8vo. 50
MILES.— A PLAIN TREATISE ON HORSE-SHOEING.
With illustrations. By William Miles, author of "The
Horse's Foot," $1 00
M3LESW0RTH. POCKET-BOOK OF USEFUL FORMULA AND
MEMORANDA FOR CIVIL AND MECHANICAL ENGI-
NEERS.
By Guilford L. Molesworth, Member of the Institution of
Civil Engineers, Chief Resident Engineer of the Ceylon Rail-
way. Second American, from the Tenth London Edition. In
one volume, full bound in pocket-book form . . $2 00
HENRY CAr.EY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE. 17
M
Don's.— THE INVENTOR'S GUIDE:
Patent Office and Patent Laws ; or, a Guide to Inventors, and
a Book of Reference for Judges, Lawyers, Magistrates, and
others. By J. G. Moore. 12mo., cloth . . $1 25
lyjAPIER.— A SYSTEM OF CHEMISTRY APPLIED TO DYEING:
^ By James Napier, F. C S. A New and Thoroughly Revised
Edition, completely brought up to the present state of the
Science, including the Chemistry of Coal Tar Colors. By A. A.
Fesquet, Chemist and Engineer. With an Appendi.x; on Dyeing
and Calico Printing, as shown at the Paris Universal Exposition
of 1867, from the Reports of the International Jury, etc Illus-
trated. In one volume 8vo., 400 pages . . . . $5 06
TO-APIER.— A MANUAL OF DYEING RECEIPTS FOR GENERAL
^^ USE.
By J.\MES Napier, F. C S. Wlih Numerous Tatterns of Diied
Cloth and Silk. Second edition, revised and enlarged. 12 mo.
$) 75
|n"APIER.— MANUAL OF ELECTRO-METALLURGY:
Including the Application of the Art to Manufacturing Pro-
cesses. By James Napiek. Fourth American, from the
Fourth London edition, revised and enlarged. Illustrated by
engravings. In one volume, 8vo. . . . . $2 00
■VTEWBERY. — GLEANINGS FROM ORNAMENTAL ART OF
•^^ EVERY STYLE;
Drawu from Examples in the British, South Kensington, In-
dian, Crystal Palace, and other Museums, the Exhibitions of
1851 and 1862, and the best English and Foreign works. In
a series of one hundred exquisitely drawn Plates, containing
many hundred examples. By Robert Newbert. 4to. $15 00
"VriCHOLSON.— .\ MANUAL OF THE ART OF BOOK-BINDING :
Containing full instructions in the different Branches of For-
warding, Gilding, and Finishing. Also, the Art of Marbling
Book-edges and Paper. By James B. Nicholson. Illus-
trated. 12mo., cloth $2 25
■jyJORRIS.— A HAND-BOOKFOR LOCOMOTIVE ENGINEERS AND
■^^ MACHINISTS :
Comprising the Proportions and Calculations for Constructing
Locomotives ; Manner of Setting Valves ; Tables of Squares,
Cubes, Areas, etc. etc. By Septimus Norris, Civil and Me-
chanical Engineer. New edition. Illustrated, 12mo., cloth
$1 00
IR HENRY CAKEY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE.
W
0
YSTEOM. — ON TECHNOLOGICAL EDUCATION AND THE
CONSTKUCTION OF SHIPS AND SCSEW PHOPELLERS :
For Naval and Marine Engineers. By John W. Nystrom, lato
Acting Chief Engineer U. S. N. Second edition, revised with
additional matter. Illustrated by seven engravings. 12mo.
$2 50
NEILL.— A DICTIONARY OF DYEING AND CALICO PRINT-
ING;
Containing a brief account of all the Substances and Processes in
use in the Art of Dyeing and Printing Textile Fabrics : with Prac-
tical Receipts and Scientific Information. By Charles O'Neill,
Analytical Chemist ; Fellow of the Chemical Society of London ;
Member of the Literary and Philosophical Society of Manchester ;
Author of "Chemistry of Calico Printing and Dyeing." To which
is added An Essay on CoalTar Colors and their Application to
Dyeing and Calico Printing. By A. A. Fesquet, Chemist and
Engineer. With an Appendix on Dyeing and Calico Printing, an
shown at the Exposition of 1867, from the Reports of the Inter-
nationalJury, etc. In one volume 8vo., 491 pages. . $6 00
QVSRMAN— OSBOEN.— TEE MANUFACTURE OF IRON IN ALL
^ ITS BRANCHES :
Including a Practical Description of the various Fuels and
their Values, the Nature, Determination and Preparation of
the Ore, the Erection and Management of Blast and other Fur-
naces, the characteristic results of Worliing by Charcoal,
Coke, or Anthracite, the Conversion of the Crude into the va-
rious kinds of Wrought Iron, and the Methods adapted to this
end. Also, a Description of Forge Hammers, Rolling Mills,
Blast Engines, &c. &c. To which is added an Essay on the
Manufacture of Steel. By Frederick Overman, Mining En-
gineer. The whole thoroughly revised and enlarged, adapted
to the latest Improvements and Discoveries, and the particular
type of American Methods of Manufacture. With various
new engravings illustrating the whole subject. By H. S. Os-
BORN, LL. D. Professor of Mining and Metallurgy in Lafay-
ette College. In one volume, 8vo. $10 00
piINTER, GILDER, AND VARNISHER'S COMPANION :
Containing Rules and Regulations in everything relating to
the Arts of Painting, Gilding, Varnishing, and Glass Staining,
with numerous useful and valuable Receipts; Tests for the
Detection of Adulterations in Oils and Colors, and a statement
of the Diseases and Accidents to which Painters, Gilders, and
HENRY CAREY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE. 19
Varnishers are particularly liable, with the simplest methods
of Prevention and Remedy. With Directions for Graining.
Marbling, Sign Writing, and Gilding on Glass. To which are
added Complete Instructions for Coach Painting and Var-
nishing. 12mo., cloth . . ... $1 50
pALLETT.— THE MILLER'S, MILLWRIGHT'S, AND ENGI-
■^ NEER'S GUIDE.
By Henry Pallett. Illustrated. In one vol. 12mo. $8 00
pSRKINS.— GAS AND VENTILATION.
Practical Treatise on Gas and Ventilation. With Special Re-
lation to Illuminating, Heating, and Cooking by Gas. Includ-
ing Scientific Helps to Engineer-students and others. With
illustrated Diagrams. By E. E. Perkins. 12mo., cloth $1 25
pERKINS AND STOWE.— A NEW GUIDE TO THE SEEET-
•^ IRON AND BOILER PLATE ROLLER :
Containing a Series of Tables showing the Weight of Slabs and
Piles to Produce Boiler Plates, and of the Weight of Piles and
the Sizes of Bars to produce Sheet-iron; the Thickness of the
Bar Gauge in Decimals ; the Weight per foot, and the Thick-
ness on the Bar or Wire Gauge of the fractional parts of an
inch; the Weight per sheet, and the Thickness on the Wii-e
Gauge of Sheet- iron of various dimensions to weigh 112 lbs.
per bundle ; and the conversion of Short Weight into Long
Weight, and Long Weight into Short. Estimated and collected
by G. H. Perkins and J. G. Stowe . . , . $2 50
p:iILLIPS AND DARLINGTON— RECORDS OF MINING AND
^ METALLURGY :
Or Facts and Memoranda for the use of the Mine Agent and
Smelter. By J. Arthor Phillips, Mining Engineer, Graduate
of the Imperial School of Mines, France, etc., and John Dar-
lington. Illustrated by numerous engravings. In one vol-
ume, 12mo $2 00
pSADAL, MALEPEYRE, AND DUSSAUCE. — A COMPLETE
^ TREATISE ON PERFUMERY :
Containing notices of the Raw Material used in the Art, and the
Best Formulte. According to the most approved Methods fol-
lowed in France, England, and the United States. By M.
P, Pradal, Perfumer Chemist, and M. F. Malepeyrb. Trans-
lated from the French, with extensive additions, by Professor
IT. DussAUCE. 8vo . $10 00
20 HENRY CAE.EY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE.
pHOTEAUX— PRACTICAL GUIDE FOR THE MANUFACTURE
^ OF PAPER AND BOARDS.
By A. Proteaux, Civil Engineei", and Graduate of the School
of Arts and A[anufactures, Director of Thiers's Paper Mill,
'Puy-de-D6me. With additions, by L. S. Le Normand.
Translated from the French, with Notes, by Horatio Paine,
A. B., M. D. To which is added a Chapter on the Manufac-
ture of Paper from Wood in the United States, by Henry T.
Brown, of the "American Artisan." Illustrated by six plates,
containing Drawings of Raw Materials, Machinery, Plans of
Paper-Mills, etc. etc. 8vo $5 00
•DEGNAULT.— ELEMENTS OF CHEMISTRY.
By M. V. Regnault. Translated from the French by T.
Forrest Betton, jM.D., and edited, with notes, by James C.
Booth, Melter and Refiner U. S. Mint, and Wm. L. Faber,
Metallurgist and Mining Engineer. Illustrated by nearly 700
wood engravings. Comprising nearly 1500 pages. In two
volumes, 8vo., cloth $10 00
TJEID.— A PRACTICAL TREATISE ON THE MANUFACTURE O?
•^ PORTLAND CEMENT;
By IIenrv Reid, C. E. To which is added a Translation of M.
A Lipiwitz's Work, describing a new method adopted in Germany
of Manufacturing that Cement. By W. F. Reid. Illustrated by
plates and wood engravings. 8vo $7 00
OHUNK— A PRACTICAL TREATISE ON RAILWAY CURVES
'^ -AND LOCATION, FOR YOUNG ENGINEERS.
By Wm. F. Shunk, Civil Engineer. 12mo. . . $1 50
OMEATON— BUILDER'S POCKET COMPANION:
Containing the Elements of Building, Surveying, and Archi-
tecture; with Practical Rules and Instructions connected with
the subject. By A. C. Sjieaton, Civil Engineer, etc. In
one volume, 12mo $1 50
OMITH— THE DYER'S INSTRUCTOR:
Comprising Practical Instructions in the Art of Dyeing Silk,
Cotton, Wool, and Worsted, and Woollen Goods: containing
nearly 800 Receipts. To which is added a Treatise on the Art
of Padding ; and the Printing of Silk Warps, Skeids, and
Handkerchiefs, and the various Mordants and Colors for the
different styles of such work. By David Smith, Pattern
Dyer. 12mo., cloth. $3 00
HENRY CAREY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE. 21
OMITH.— PARKS AND PLEASURE GROUNDS :
Or Practical Notes on Country Residences, Villas, Public
Parks, and Gardens. By Charles H. J. Smith, Landscape
Gardener and Garden Architect, etc. etc. 12mo. . $2 25
OTOKES.— CABINET-MAKER'S AND UPHOLSTERER'S COMPA-
*^ NION :
Comprising the Rudiments and Principles of Cabinet-making
and Upholstery, with Familiar Instructions, Illustrated by Ex-
amples for attaining a Proficiency in the Art of Drawing, as
applicable to Cabinet-work ; The Processes of Veneering, In-
laying, and Buhl-work ; the Art of Dyeing and Staining Wood,
Bone, Tortoise Shell, etc. Directions for Lackering, Japan-
ning, and Varnishing ; to make French Polish ; to prepare the
Best Glues, Cements, and Compositions, and a number of Re-
ceipts particularly for workmen generally. By J. Stokes. In
one vol. 12mo. With illustrations . . . . $1 25
STRENGTH AND OTHER PROPERTIES OF METALS.
Reports of Experiments on the Strength and other Proper-
ties of Metals for Cannon. With a Description of the Machines
for Testing Metals, and of the Classification of Cannon in ser-
vice. By Officers of the Ordnance Department U. S. Army
By authority of the Secretary of War. Illustrated by 25 large
steel plates. In 1 vol. quarto $10 00
rjiABLES SHOWING THE WEIGHT OF ROUND, SQUARE, AND
•*• FLAT BAR IRON, STEEL, ETC.,
By Measurement. Cloth 63
mAYLOR,— STATISTICS OF COAL :
Including Mineral Bituminous Substances employed in Arts
and Manufactures; with their Geographical, Geological, and
Commercial Distribution and amount of Production and Con-
sumption on the American Continent. With Incidental Sta-
tistics of the Iron Manufacture. By R. C. Taylok. Second
edition, revised by S. S. Haldeman. Illustrated by five Maps
and many wood engravings. 8vo., cloth . . . $6 00
rpEMPLETON.— THE PRACTICAL EXAMINATOR ON STEAM
•^ AND THE STEAM-ENGINE :
With Instructive References relative thereto, for the Use of
Engineers, Students, and others. By Wm. Templeton, Engi-
neer. 12mo $1 25
22 HENRY CAREY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE.
rjiHOMAS.— THE MODERN PRACTICE OF PHOTOGRAPHY.
By R. W. Thomas, F. C. S. 8vo., cloth ... 75
rpHOMSON.— FREIGHT CHARGES CALCULATOR.
By Andrew Thomson, Freight Agent . . . $1 25
rpURUBULL.— THE ELECTRO-MAGNETIC TELEGRAPH :
With an Historical. Account of its Rise, Progress, and Present
Condition. Also, Practical Suggestions in regard to Insula-
tion and Protection from the effects of Lightning. Together
"with an Appendix, containing several important Telegraphic
Devices and Laws. By Lawrence Tnrneull, M. D., Lectu-
rer on Technical Chemistry at the Franklin Institute. Revised
and improved. Illustrated. 8vo. . . . $3 00
npjRNER'S (THE) COMPANION:
Containing Instructions in Concentric, Elliptic, and Eccentric
Turning; also various Plates of Chucks, Tools, and Instru-
ments ; and Directions for using the Eccentric Cutter, Drill,
Vertical Cutter, and Circular Rest; with Patterns and Instruc-
tions for working them. A new edition in one vol. 12mo.
$1 50
TTLSICH— DTISSAUCE.— A COMPLETE TREATISE ON THE ART
^ OF DYEING COTTON AND WOOL:
As practised in Paris, Rouen, Mulhausen, and Germany.
From the French of M. Louis Ulrich, a Practical Dyer in
the principal Manufactories of Paris, Rouen, Mulhausen, etc.
etc. ; to which are added the most important Receipts for Dye-
ing Wool, as practised in the Manufacture Imperials des Go-
belins, Paris. By Professor H. Dtjesauoe. 12mo. $3 50
TTRBIN— BRTJLL. — A PRACTICAL GUIDE FOR PUDDLING
^ IRON Al^D STEEL.
By Ed. Urbin, Engineer of Arts and Manufactures. A Prize
Essay read before the Association of Engineers, Graduate of
the School of Mines, of Liege, Belgium, at the Meeting of
]865 — 6. To which is added a Comparison of the Resisting
Properties of Iron and Steel. By A. Brull. Translated
from the French by A. A. Fesquet, Chemist and Engineer. In
oae volume, Bvo. . $1 00
WATSON.— A MANUAL OF THE HAND-LATHE.
By Egbert P. Watson, Late of the "Scientific American,"
Author of "Modern Practice of American Machinists and
Engineers." In one volume, 12mo. $1 50
HENRY CAREY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE. 23
WATSON— THE MODERN PRACTICE OF AMERICAN MA-
''' CHINISTS AND ENGINEERS :
Including the Construction, Application, and Use of Drills,
Lathe Tools, Cutters for Boring Cylinders, and Hollow Work
Generally, with the most Economical Speed of the same, the
Results verified by Actual Practice at the Lathe, the Vice, and
on the Floor. Together with Workshop management. Economy
of Manufacture, the Steam-Engine, Boilers, Gears, Belting, etc.
etc. By Egbert P. Watson, late of the " Scientific American."
Illustrated by eighty-six engravings. 12mo. . . $2 50
WATSON.— THE THEORY AND PRACTICE OF THE ART OF
'''' WEAVING BY HAND AND POWER:
With Calculations and Tables for the iise of those connected
with the Trade. By John Watson, Manufacturer and Prac-
tical Machine Maker. Illustrated by large drawings of the
best Power-Looms. 8vo. $10 00
WE ATHERLY.— TREATISE ON THE ART OF BOILING STJ-
'''' GAR, CRYSTALLIZING, LOZENGE-MAKING, COMFITS,
GUM GOODS,
And other processes for Confectionery, &c. In which are ex-
plained, in an easy and familiar manner, the various Methods
of Manufacturing every description of Raw and Refined sugar
Goods, as sold by Confectioners and others . . $2 00
LL.— TABLES FOR QUALITATIVE CHEMICAL ANALYSIS.
By Prof. Heinrich Will, of Giessen, Germany. Seventh edi-
tion. Translated by Charles F. Himes, Ph. D., Professor of
Natural Science, Dickinson College, Carlisle, Pa. . $1 25
WILLIAMS.— ON HEAT AND STEAM :
Embracing New Views of Vaporization, Condensation, and
Expansion. By Charles Wye Williams, A. I. C. E. Illus-
trated. 8vo. $3 50
WOHLER.— A PRACTICAL TREATISE ON ANALYTICAL CHEM-
'''' ISTRY.
By F. WoHLER. With additions by Grandeau and Troost.
Edited by H. B. Nason, Professor of Chemistry, Rensselaer
Institute, Troy, N. Y. With numerous Illustrations. {In press. )
WORSSAM.— ON MECHANICAL SAWS :
From the Transactions of the Society of Engineers, 1867. By
S. W. WoRSSAM, Jr. Illustrated by 18 large folding plates. 8vo.
$5 00
W-
24 HENRY CAREY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE,
■DOX.— A PRA.CTICAL TREATISE ON HEAT AS APPLIED TO
^ TIIL USEFUL ARTS:
For the use of Engineers, Architects, etc. By Thomas Bo:n;
author of "Practical Hydraulics." Illustrated by 14 plates, con-
taining 114 figures. 12mo. . . . . . . $4 25
•pYRNE.— THE AMERICAN ENGINEER, DRAUGHTSMAN, AND
■^ MACHINIST'S ASSISTANT:
Designed for Practical Workingmen, Apprentices, and those in-
tended for the Engineering Profession. Illustrated witil 200
Engravings on wood, and 14 large Plates of American Machinery
and Engine-work. By Oliver Byrne. 4to. Cloth . $6 00
nHAPMAN.— A TREATISE ON ROPE-MAKING,
As praotised in private and public Rope-yards, with a Description
of the Manufacture, Rules, Tables of Weights, etc. adapted to the
Trade; Shipping, Mining, Railways, Builders, etc By Robert
Chapman. 24mo $1 50
OLOAN— AMERICAN HOUSES :
A variety of Original Designs for Rural Buildings. Illustrated by
26 colored Engravings, with Descriptive References By Samuel
Sloan, Architect; author of the "Model Architect, "etc. etc. 8vo
$2 60
OMITH,— THE PRACTICAL DYER'S GUIDE:
Comprising Practical Instructions in the Dyeing of Shot Cobourgs,
Silk Striped Orleans, Colored Orleans from Black Warps, ditto
from White Warps, Colored Cobourgs from White Warps, Merinos,
Yarns, Woollen Cloths, etc. Containing nearly 300 Receipts, to
most of which a Dyed Pattern is annexed Also, a Treatise on
the Art of Padding. By David Smith. In one vol. 8vo. $25 00
,.*■".'■■ --^..^^ :^\ %/
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